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Post by 1990dtgl98 on May 2, 2014 16:09:37 GMT -5
I meant the trigger assembly locks the side lever in place. So you can't pin the trigger assembly in and then get the side lever in.
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Post by 24forever on May 2, 2014 16:14:00 GMT -5
On my gun, nothing locks the side lever in place. It fits just like any other pin does from side-to-side. In fact that only thing connected to it is the barrel locking bolt, which slides into the groove. Can you take a picture of yours?
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Post by 24forever on May 3, 2014 20:03:48 GMT -5
1990...did you get it back together yet? If so...what was your technique?
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Post by 1990dtgl98 on May 4, 2014 20:59:24 GMT -5
I had to insert the side lever with the trigger assembly hanging slightly down (I'm not sure why yours doesn't have it, but my trigger housing definitely extends into the hole for the side lever... At least the corner of it. The side lever also has a groove that the corner of the trigger assembly fits into to prevent that side lever from coming out). So I physically can't remove the side lever unless I drop the two pins and let that trigger assembly come out a bit.
It was a bear, but everything internally looked good actually.
Thank God for a brass hammer (though my pins are a little messed up).
Which leads me to about 3 more questions.
1.) what's a good bluing brand to touch up the marks on the pins? Any favorite here?
2.) when your hammer is down.. Do you guys get a 1/4" or so of movement? I'm talking front and back (toward the firing pin and cocked, not side to side). It seems like I can move the hammer forward almost a 1/4" (like it loosely sits back off the firing pin which I never had a gun do before) and it seems like there's a 1/8" pull before there's any spring resistance.
3.) is the rim fire firing pin spring loaded and the shotgun one not? The shotgun firing pin I can move loosely and there's not a spring. The rim fire one is spring loaded. Wanted to make sure this was normal and not missing something.
Thanks guys!
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Post by 24forever on May 4, 2014 21:16:42 GMT -5
Glad you got it together!
1) I use Brownell's "Oxopho" or some name very similar to that. Has woked very well for me on touch ups.
2) When at rest, the hammer will push forward a bit under tension of that very fine spring on the front side of the hammer that sets it away from the firing pins. This design is a very old type known as a "rebounding" hammer...and it comes back in order to let the firing pins release and get out of the way when action is opened.
3) Yes, rimfire pin is spring loaded, shotgun one is not. Yes, I know - it is a bit wierd, but that is how they did it. Seems to work perfectly.
Did you do a trigger job on yours - or just lubricate the sear mating surfaces wth some grease?? Have you measured the trigger pull? My 24S-E is pretty nasty...about 8 - 10 lbs of pull necessary. I've got to reduce that a bit.
-Dennis
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Post by 24forever on May 4, 2014 21:46:07 GMT -5
1990, I went back another time and looked closely at my side lever and the trigger housing. You are correct in that the lever has a groove that the sheet metal corner of the trigger housing rides in - to keep the lever from backing out.
Apparently on my gun (which has seen a LOT of use since 1963), that sheet metal corner is all but worn off and barely makes contact! Regardless, the side lever won't back out because of the barrel locking bolt friction, which tends to keep it all in place anyway. Maybe if I pulled out on the lever and wiggled it hard...it might back out with a great deal of effort!
It's a cool gun...very simple mechanicals, and rather ingenious the way they made it all fit together.
-Dennis
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Post by 1990dtgl98 on May 5, 2014 10:47:09 GMT -5
Glad you got it together! 1) I use Brownell's "Oxopho" or some name very similar to that. Has woked very well for me on touch ups. 2) When at rest, the hammer will push forward a bit under tension of that very fine spring on the front side of the hammer that sets it away from the firing pins. This design is a very old type known as a "rebounding" hammer...and it comes back in order to let the firing pins release and get out of the way when action is opened. 3) Yes, rimfire pin is spring loaded, shotgun one is not. Yes, I know - it is a bit wierd, but that is how they did it. Seems to work perfectly. Did you do a trigger job on yours - or just lubricate the sear mating surfaces wth some grease?? Have you measured the trigger pull? My 24S-E is pretty nasty...about 8 - 10 lbs of pull necessary. I've got to reduce that a bit. -Dennis It's heavy.... About 10# I polished the surfaces but it didn't help. And I really didn't want to to get into grinding the sear and possibly having issues with it firing accidentally. |
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Post by captcapsize on May 7, 2014 13:48:32 GMT -5
Did you polish the sear engagement surfaces seen with a jewelers loupe? That is really necessary because of the heavy hammer spring tension. Is is worth it to you to take it apart and redo it?
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Post by Johnnyboy on Mar 23, 2016 17:00:25 GMT -5
I just took mine apart and put it back together. It took me more tha 6 hours to figure. I'm not sure if I installed the lever correctly but it seems to work. It is a bit difficult to open doe times, perhaps polishing where the metals meet will help. I did break the trigger guard but I know exactly what went wrong there and will be replacing it in the near future. Anyhow. I may be putting a video together and uploading it on you tube on how to reassemble the trigger assembly back together.
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rj
Rank Stranger
Posts: 19 
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Post by rj on Apr 1, 2016 11:19:21 GMT -5
This is gonna sound off topic at first, but I assure you, it is not. I recently became the owner of a Stevens 940E. All the small parts were in a zip lock bag. A little bit of internet searching showed that the 940 is a 24-S with a few cosmetic changes. This you tube video, not without it's problems, shows how simple it is to reassemble: 940 assemblyThere is some good conversation in the comments below the video. I made the two slave pins and tried with the unit fully assembled and discovered that did not work. Leaving only the hammer out worked. I did also discover that the "at rest" position of the hammer spring is important to position the hammer off the firing pin while allowing the side lever to move and open the barrel. I hope neilrr has some comments on this as excellent as his write up of the older model 24 action. |
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Post by neilrr on Apr 2, 2016 9:25:27 GMT -5
rj - thanks for the complement on the Model 24 22/410 disassembly/reassembly write-up. First, I do not have this specific Model 24, and thus no direct experience disassembling/reassembling it. However after studying the Model 24SE schematic, I do have some general comments on the previous posts....
1. The trigger assembly will go back together much easier when using slave pins instead of trying to line up the various parts when the trigger assembly is placed in the receiver. I did watch a Stevens 940E YouTube video and saw the difficulty the person was having lining up the various parts when installing the trigger assembly in the receiver without using slave pins. The use of slave pins is a common practice among gunsmiths. They are great substitute for a third hand. I could not find any other Stevens 940E videos detailing disassembly/reassembly. If you can give me a link, I will watch it and then maybe be able to give specific comments to disassembly/reassembly of this Model 24.
2. As others have stated and is a common practice by the various gun manufactures to design pins to be removed from left to right especially with a knurled end on the right end of the pin and installed right to left.
3. The hammer should rebound backward a slight distance so the hammer selector is not touching either firing pin when the hammer is at rest or in its so called "safe" position. The hammer when in the rebound position should not move very easily, but be held in place by the hammer spring. However, a sharp blow directly to the back of the hammer could potentially cause the hammer selector to strike the selected firing pin and discharge the gun if that chamber is loaded. To be totally safe with this type of gun I would never walk through the woods, or any where, with the hammer cocked. To add an additional safety measure I would set the hammer selector on the empty chamber, i.e. if using the shotgun, set the hammer selector it to contact the rife firing pin and vice versa. You can easily adjust the hammer selector to the shotgun barrel as you cock the hammer.
4. The upper rifle firing pin is spring loaded to ensure that the firing pin is retracted to allow the gun to close easily. There is no need to spring load the lower shotgun firing pin since the angle of the closing barrel will by-pass the shotgun firing pin as the barrel is closed and automatically push the shotgun firing pin back into the receiver. If the barrels where reversed then the shotgun firing pin would be spring loaded. Note, later Model 24's, such as the 24V have firing pin springs on both the rife and shotgun firing pins.
5. Most Model 24's have very heavy trigger pulls, mine is 10lbs+. This was a safety measure since the guns did not have a true safety to prevent accidental discharges. As captcapsize stated polishing the sear and trigger engagement surface using a loop is a good idea to smooth their surfaces to help reduce the tigger pull weight without increasing the potential for an accidental discharge. If you are using this gun for hunting then I would not put grease on the trigger, hammer, their associated springs or pins, but use a dry lubricant to prevent dirt from sticking to these parts and potentially causing misfires.
I hope that the above has been helpful and if you get me the YouTube link I will see if I can be of further help. The 24 is a great and versatile gun, I really enjoy mine. |
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rj
Rank Stranger
Posts: 19
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Post by rj on Apr 3, 2016 19:30:32 GMT -5
Thanks for your comments.
The only video I have found is the one I referenced in my post.
It quickly became obvious while watching it that there had to be a better way.
The slave pins were the answer.
One thing I have learned is that a slave pin should be slightly smaller than the hole.
I used to bypass cheap number drill sets at garage sales until I realized that each one contained a bunch of stock slightly smaller than most standard pins.
I just use the shank.
That video did show the reason for knocking the pin out right to left.
At least in that respect it was informational.
Most of the rebounding hammers I have seen used "Y" shaped yoke and a humongous spring.
This model uses a novel clothes pin spring.
All should have a projection on the trigger to block the hammer when the trigger is released.
Not much better than the old safety notch, but at least does not require a separate manual operation.
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Post by crustyrusty on Apr 17, 2017 22:34:48 GMT -5
Hi I don't know if anybody's still chasing this thread but I'm in need of a little assistance. I foolishly took in a M24SE for cerakote thinking it'd be a breeze. Wow was I wrong!! The schematic linked to above is the same as the 1 in my gun digest book of schematics, which is of little help with the SE variant. I'm going to try the trigger - before- the- break clever struck mentioned above, but if anybody out there has their ears on and can zip me some inside knowledge I'd sure be mighty greatful
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Post by crustyrusty on Apr 17, 2017 22:41:15 GMT -5
* break lever TRICK* stupid Ducking😉 auto correct lol. Also didn't see the 2nd page button. I've done the slave pin thing, but this little P-shooter is breaking my you-know-whats. And I'm the guy that can dang near assemble AR and 1911 platforms in my sleep
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Post by neilrr on Apr 18, 2017 6:56:23 GMT -5
crustyrusty - welcome and sorry to hear that you have having issues with the 24SE. If you can describe what the issues are in detail that you are experiencing, and what you have tried, I will try to help you. If I cannot then maybe some other member can.
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