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Post by gunkeeper on May 27, 2015 10:11:16 GMT -5
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Post by Mr. Polecat on May 27, 2015 15:47:43 GMT -5
Man, that makes me want to cry. D:
How's the crown?
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Post by gunkeeper on May 27, 2015 15:53:11 GMT -5
I'm not much on terminology sorry. But what are you referring to as the crown?
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Post by gunkeeper on May 27, 2015 15:56:58 GMT -5
Oh and by the way it locks up tight.
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Post by Mr. Polecat on May 27, 2015 19:31:26 GMT -5
Inside edge of the muzzle end, where it's kinds turned down inside to keep the edge from getting dinged up (and thus destroying the gun's accuracy). Looks rusty up there.
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Post by gunkeeper on May 28, 2015 6:34:53 GMT -5
Don't look too bad to me and feels smooth when I run my finger over it but am by no means an expert. Posted pic. But to me pic looks a lot worse than in person. Got spider webs in both barrels. Been on 7/12's for 6 weeks will give a complete cleaning when I get off of them. Any suggestions on best way to remove surface rust with out removing to much blueing. Also will consider refinishing if needed but don't want to take to much away from value. But got gun for training the grandkids have. 17 of the little rascals
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blaze
Frequent poster
Posts: 108
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Post by blaze on May 28, 2015 13:33:34 GMT -5
Gunkeeper: For a good job of cleaning off rust without removing the blue or scratching the metal surface I have, for years, used either Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaner or my favorite and locally available Chore Boy Copper scrub pads. Never steel wool as it will scratch the metal surface. Let us know how it turns out.
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Post by gunkeeper on May 28, 2015 14:45:39 GMT -5
Just picked up today at lunch what is called Big 45?? It kinda looks like steel wool but bigger it says will remove rust but won't harm blueing. Is that the same as what you are talking about?
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Post by Mr. Polecat on May 28, 2015 17:28:10 GMT -5
Oh cool.... From that previous picture at the muzzle end, I was expecting the crown to be all ate up. But that looks good 'nuff to me!
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Post by gunkeeper on May 28, 2015 18:28:44 GMT -5
That makes me feel better. I will post after clean up pictures when done. Is barrels hard to remove? I see a lot of crud were it opens.i think she will look totally different after a good bath and oiling. Thanks for all of yall's comments. Hope to learn more about the gun.. I'm reading everything I find on her but don't see a lot about the 24B-DL must not be a lot around. .
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Post by captcapsize on May 28, 2015 20:14:18 GMT -5
It is easy enough to remove the barrels. With the gun closed and locked just grasp the forearm and pull it away from the barrels. The gun will come apart when you open the breach. It would be a good idea to read as many back posts as you can stand there is a real education buried in there. Nice find btw, it should clean up real nice.
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Post by gunkeeper on May 28, 2015 21:19:15 GMT -5
Will check that out. Thanks for the info. Ran a bore brush through the cylinders they cleaned up nicely. And hit her with the 45 frontier pad briefly just to see will work on it more this weekend hopefully. But kinda looks like a total blueing might be in order. Will try to tear it down as far as possible and soak it. Will need a new back sight and elevator. (Sight rusted pretty bad an elevator missing)
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Post by littleguns on May 29, 2015 13:14:35 GMT -5
Here's the information I found when preparing to put a 24B-DL on my table at a local gunshow in late winter: The 24B-DL was manufactured in 1962. It was the second of six "DL" (Deluxe) models from Savage, starting with just "DL." The B-DL is an early example of DLs with the barrel selector on the side of the receiver (left side for the B; right side on the C-DL and maybe others). DLs in 1964 switched to the (IMO more dependable but less desirable) hammer-spur selector. The DLs are what I would consider semi-scarce but certainly not rare; I see a handful a year at gunshows, and more on line. Three .22-over-20 B-DLs in nice condition sold on GunBroker in January/February 2015 for $610, $599.99 and $651.51 (plus shipping on all). Mine in similar condition failed to sell at the small local show (a few hundred attendees) for $525 with a new soft case. I'm glad it didn't sell, because I found a C-DL in the much scarcer .22 over .410 at the April show in Tulsa, so now I have almost-matching .410 and 20-gauge DLs (plus a post-nickel black one in .22/.410). My C-DL could stand a barrel reblue, but my local old-time gunsmith will do it hot blue for $25 if I remove the sights, etc., and can wait for him to have a batch of recluse to do. I hope you find this information helpful. The DLs are kinda cool, although I still prefer the plain old Model .22/.410 Stevens and Model 24 Savage.
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Post by gunkeeper on May 29, 2015 15:08:31 GMT -5
Thanks littleguns will reblueing and restore the wood hurt the value? And if I were to put better sights. Just curious will be for teaching grandkids to shoot but would still like her to look good
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Post by littleguns on May 29, 2015 19:31:33 GMT -5
Thanks littleguns will reblueing and restore the wood hurt the value? And if I were to put better sights. Just curious will be for teaching grandkids to shoot but would still like her to look good Opinions on reblueing and redoing wood vary. It depends a lot on the model of the gun. My personal opinion is that once a typical gun reaches the point of needing cosmetic work, it's not going to hurt the value to clean it up, which will probably add to its value for the average gunshow buyer. I'm talking here about fairly common guns maybe a few decades old and worth a few hundred dollars at most. If you get into things like pre-1900 Winchester lever guns, then an original less-than-perfect finish will make it worth more than a refinished gun. But for your D-BL specifically, my experience is that refinished and looking good will bring a lot more than original and kind of ragged. I really prefer original, unmolested guns, but I find that most folks like ones that look nice; I encounter this all the time if I try to sell an original boy's rifle such as a Crackshot or Little Scout vs. a refinished gun of the same model. True collectors, whether of a D-BL or other gun, will go for close-to-perfect unretouched originals, but since yours already needs some polishing, I'd say go for whatever appeals to you regarding blue and wood and sights. After all, you can't do anything to vastly change the value, up or down, of a gun that's only worth a few hundred anyway.
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