scott
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Post by scott on Jan 13, 2014 17:44:04 GMT -5
I'm operating largely off the diagrams I've looked at, but I haven't been able to find anything detailed enough to determine if I'm missing something important here.
All the model 24 trigger guards I've seen, and the parts diagrams show the trigger guard being held in place with two identical screws. But the front screw boss on my rifle is about a 3/16" diameter non-threaded hole. It's blued so I don't think it was drilled out.
Did some models use a different front screw or different trigger guard altogether?
Thanks again. Million questions this afternoon.
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Post by gman on Jan 14, 2014 10:00:32 GMT -5
I know that some of the 24's have both trigger guard screws go upward through the trigger guard into the frame, and other 24's have a the forward trigger guard screw come down from inside the frame into the trigger guard. It is possible that the trigger guard you have is not the original one for that particular model, and it originally had the screw coming down from the inside the frame?
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scott
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Posts: 100
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Post by scott on Jan 14, 2014 11:32:29 GMT -5
I don't have any trigger guard at all right now. I'm just trying to figure out if I need the standard metal one that everyone seems to sell, or something else. I've heard of plastic guards, but haven't seen one in person yet.
For the models which the forward screw came down from the inside, was there a locating boss on the trigger guard that recessed into the frame? If so then that would explain the configuration I'm seeing on this rifle.
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Post by gman on Jan 14, 2014 14:02:44 GMT -5
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scott
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Post by scott on Jan 14, 2014 15:09:24 GMT -5
Been there, looked at that. From what I can tell, of the V's, only the 24v or the 24v-a had the front screw going through the top of the receiver. It's awfully hard to tell if there's a boss on the front of the trigger guard from the photo though.
without a solid answer, I'm just going to assume that there is a boss on top and I need the a series trigger guard... So that either means that I was wrong about mine being a B series gun (It has B stamped on the lower barrel block, the inside of the receiver and under the buttplate. Doesn't that indicate B series?), or it's a near transition model and maybe has some A series parts?
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Post by gman on Jan 14, 2014 15:52:41 GMT -5
no I believe that is not correct, that stamp from my understanding does not mean the series. see here: www.cylindersmith.com/savage24/datecode.html it talks about the oval and the letters. And then goes on to describe the various series... "Savage 24V: All came in only center fire cartridges over 20 gauge; Monte Carlo style stocks (some checkered other not); top of tang barrel release lever; separated barrels; Pay close attention to markings as this is exactly how they appear on the guns themselves 24V, 24V-A, 24V Series B, 24V Series C, 24V Series D. 24V & 24V-A had an unsightly monoblock breech which changed slightly on the 24V Series B and recontoured to a more smooth and eye appealing in the 24V Series C and 24V Series D. All models other than the 24V Series D were only chambered in .222Rem or .30-30Win. 24V Series D was Chambered in .22 Hornet, .222Rem, .223Rem, .30-30Win,.357 Magnum, & .357 Rem Maximum" |
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scott
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Posts: 100
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Post by scott on Jan 14, 2014 16:38:25 GMT -5
yeah, I read that to begin with. Unfortunately between me being a newbie to model 24's and the wording of the site, it was not very clear at the time. The B stampings I was referring to were accompanied with a makers mark that looks kind of like two small ovals. I assumed that's what the description was referring to.
The stamping on the outside of the reciever just says 24V so with your description and the fact that it's got a full mono breech block (Id hardly call it unsightly) I'd say I got the series wrong.
With luck that won't screw things up too horribly with my parts order. We'll wait and see I guess.
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Post by gman on Jan 15, 2014 9:18:29 GMT -5
Good luck, and not to worry I and many others have found this wonderful rifle/shotgun both confusing and frustrating in identification of what is what.
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Post by sidewinder on Jan 16, 2014 20:54:12 GMT -5
Scott, I own a number of Savage 24s in various calibers and gauges. As this thread started from you trying to decide what style of trigger guard you needed for your gun, I'll offer this information. There were different styles of trigger guards. I'm going through exactly what you're going through right now on one of my .30-30/20 Gauge models. That large unthreaded hole, in the front of the trigger, accepts a raised boss on the trigger guard, that has threads in it. The screw is installed from inside the receiver and screws into the front of the trigger guard. The screw behind the trigger is inserted through the rear trigger guard hole and is screwed into threads in the receiver.
This kind of trigger guard is a cast aluminum (puter?) guard, whereas the other type in a bent piece of flat strap metal with holes drilled into both ends... Numrich says this is a "replacement", but it is "not" for the kind you and I need. You may find some times that someone has replaced the cast guard with a plastic guard...which is hhat they did on one of my .30-30/20 Gauges. They have to drill and tap the hole off center, as there's the afore mentioned 3/16 hole that you talked about.
Bad news... I've tried to locate the cast guard, with no luck. Numrich is out of stock! If you find some, let me know because I need one too.
If you'll PM me, I'll try to figure out how to take a pic of the correct guard for your gun. I have one off of another one of my guns right now. Good luck!
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scott
Frequent poster
Posts: 100
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Post by scott on Jan 17, 2014 10:05:52 GMT -5
Thanks Sidewinder.
I've done a fair amount of "googling" over the past few days since I posted the initiial question and came to the same conclusion that you posted. It's nice to have some backup though.
I'm currently combing all the dark corners of the internet looking for a used guard. My first numrich order included the "replacement guard, but I'm assuming it will be wrong and I'll end up returning it.
Worst case, I've got some heavy aluminum strap and I'll make my own trigger guard. It wont be stock, but I've done similar things before (the last was a mag release lever that followed the contours of the triger guard on a 10/22 I built a few years back) and am confident that I can do a good job if it comes down to it.
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