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Post by wilbuc on Feb 15, 2016 15:46:50 GMT -5
Those are some nice guns leaf. If I am not mistaken, the bottom gun has a metal trigger gaurd replacement.
Looking through the Savage catalogs, my gun appears most like those 24V's shown in 1980. It does not have a barrel band/sight combination like most 24V's but rather a small rectangular block between barrels separating them. The actual front sight is completely separate from this joining block.
Here are some numbers off the gun: On case hardened breech--D961..... On 30-30 barrel---SP9 (I am not sure of the 9) On upper shotgun breech area---0 On lower shotgun breech area---There is a number 5 inside of a square box Underneath the breech area when gun is opened there is a large C on the right side
Any insight or help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks everyone for their contributions.
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Post by Mr. Polecat on Feb 15, 2016 17:09:21 GMT -5
Ahh ok, that explains it then. Those later guns are weird, heh. Yeah, that trigger guard is a piece cut out of the deck of a junk pushmower using an angle grinder, haha....... That gun is pretty rough. Savage 24V/F Transition Model: I have limited information about this particular model. It has a 24V receiver, which is case hardened, with 24F barrels, and wood stock and forearm. The first time I saw one I thought it was a Frankenstein someone who didn't know better put together. I have since seen 3 of these and have one coming to me presently for inspection. It would seem that this model was sold after Savage came out of receivership in the late 1990's. I suspect there were left over 24V receivers sitting in back stock and the 24F was coming off the design table, so the remaining parts were combined with the new to deplete remaining parts. More details soon. Sounds like that is what you have, but I dunno how to figure out an exact date on those later guns. www.cylindersmith.com/savage24/datecode.html , but doesn't cover the 1980s models.
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Post by wilbuc on Feb 15, 2016 18:07:53 GMT -5
I've read somewhere that a 24 owner made a nice looking guard from a spoon handle. It's got me to thinking....
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Post by hairytully on Feb 15, 2016 21:18:32 GMT -5
I've got the welded barrel block near the muzzle, instead of a barrel band on my S24 223/12. The barrels were actually bent toward and touching each other for most of their length. I couldn't fit even the smallest coin between and used a very thin metal shim shoved in to regulate my barrels. This hasn't affected the accuracy at all, just required re-zeroing the sight. As far as I know the only reason to shim the barrels is to regulate the rifle and shotgun barrels points of impact as close as practical. If you're happy with the regulation, it ain't broke so don't fix it.
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Post by wilbuc on Feb 15, 2016 21:35:56 GMT -5
Thanks for the info hairytully. I got to looking at my barrels tonight and realized that the top rifle barrel is tapered towards the muzzle end. This tapering is what causes a small gap near the breech area and a larger one near the muzzle. Don't know why I didn't realize this earlier. Yea, it shoots fine so I'm leaving it alone. If some of you other guys have nothing to worry about, you might measure the distance between your barrels also, and get your pants in a wad.
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jimk
New Guy
Posts: 25
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Post by jimk on Feb 6, 2020 9:45:24 GMT -5
I reload for friends only .. 50 years at it. I have 24v in 222/20... With Imr 4198 using 19.2 grs and HORNADY 50 Spitzer in same hole first 2 shots in dirty bore ... Have not shot the shotgun barrel yet. I am using scope without see thru mounts ,I hate them .. See what it does ....
24f barrels do not have barrel clamp at muzz and I get regulation bad on 22 hornet ... Can get 2 shots from dirty barrel touching after that shots go up ....
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