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Post by dravenguild on Dec 1, 2017 17:47:32 GMT -5
Hello everyone,
I can't seem to post photos but I'm looking for some help, I'm in need of the proper firing pin for the .22 mag portion of my savage 24 field grade series S with the plastic trigger guard that has the break mechanism on the front.
The ones I've got off of gunbroker, numrich and other various sources don't function properly and give light or no strikes.
I have not been able to find any schematics for the field grade that indicates what the firing pin looks like.
I'm hoping if anyone else here has a field grade 24 with the plastic trigger guard and break mechanism on the guard to please get me a photo or diagram of the rifle firing pin so I know what to look for.
It's so difficult to find info on the series S (not 24S)
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ferg
Rank Stranger
Posts: 6 
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Post by ferg on Dec 2, 2017 20:58:24 GMT -5
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Post by dravenguild on Dec 3, 2017 15:19:40 GMT -5
That's not the correct part, I've already had that very same pin in the rifle with that spring and it's not oriented properly. The point of strike is horizontal when it should be vertical. Or at least that's what I surmise given that I can't get a single person to show me their firing pin.. |
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Post by neilrr on Dec 3, 2017 17:23:55 GMT -5
Welcome, I have had the same issue with our friends at Numrich several times. In your case, when the flat side of the Numrich supplied rim fire firing pin (part #4, Jack First's schematic for Model 24S) is orientated correctly (vertically) in the gun to allow the firing pin screw (part #6) to retain it, the face of the rim fire firing pin is horizontal, not vertical. The easiest way to correct this issue is to purchase the shotgun firing pin (part #5) which is identical to the rim fire firing pin for this Model 24 except for the shape of the firing pin face. You can take the shotgun firing pin, orientate it with the flat edge vertical and grind a vertical face on end of the firing pin. During this reshaping process you need to maintain the length of the original shotgun firing pin as much as possible. For the price of the shotgun firing pin, I would purchase several in case you have any issues when forming the rim fire firing pin. Good luck and if you need any further help just ask.
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Post by dravenguild on Dec 3, 2017 19:18:04 GMT -5
Welcome, I have had the same issue with our friends at Numrich several times. In your case, when the flat side of the Numrich supplied rim fire firing pin (part #4, Jack First's schematic for Model 24S) is orientated correctly (vertically) in the gun to allow the firing pin screw (part #6) to retain it, the face of the rim fire firing pin is horizontal, not vertical. The easiest way to correct this issue is to purchase the shotgun firing pin (part #5) which is identical to the rim fire firing pin for this Model 24 except for the shape of the firing pin face. You can take the shotgun firing pin, orientate it with the flat edge vertical and grind a vertical face on end of the firing pin. During this reshaping process you need to maintain the length of the original shotgun firing pin as much as possible. For the price of the shotgun firing pin, I would purchase several in case you have any issues when forming the rim fire firing pin. Good luck and if you need any further help just ask. I appreciate that immensely, I'll go ahead and get that on order. However, does anyone know what the original firing pin looks like? On Jack's first gun I saw a firing pin for the 24E that looks like it's got the right orientation I'm wondering if they shared parts? jack-first-gun-parts.myshopify.com/collections/savage-24-series-combo-rifle-shotgun/products/savage-24e-firing-pin-rifle |
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Post by neilrr on Dec 3, 2017 20:11:47 GMT -5
The rim fire firing pin for the 24E is the same shape and part number as for your 24S.
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Post by dravenguild on Dec 4, 2017 19:01:08 GMT -5
The rim fire firing pin for the 24E is the same shape and part number as for your 24S. Just got the pin in today and swapped it out with the one my gunsmith rigged up. And without having fired it, it looks like it should work! I'm going to take it out and test it out, will report back results. |
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Post by dravenguild on Dec 9, 2017 2:25:38 GMT -5
Well, the 24E firing pin was a failure, I'm at a loss here. The pin the Smith fashioned is perfectly serviceable but I'm beginning to think I may have bought myself one of savages notorious lemons.
And it's frustrating knowing that I will always have to have new ones milled instead of being able to purchase them from most other sites.
And there isn't anything wrong with the mainspring plunger or selector.
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Post by neilrr on Dec 9, 2017 15:55:03 GMT -5
Sorry to hear the 24E firing pin did not work. Have you compared it with the one the smith made? If different, how? Is it too short, the face too large, or is something else different? It should have worked unless it was not fabricated correctly.
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Post by Jack1 on Dec 9, 2017 16:27:20 GMT -5
Wild guess here - how long is your spring? When I had to manufacture a new firing pin for a 24V, I wound up having to trim the spring a bit as it was keeping the pin from going far enough forward. Out of curiosity, I might remove the barrel, pull the rigger and push the hammer forward to see how far the pin protrudes.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Dec 9, 2017 19:00:22 GMT -5
Ok, I’ll offer my experience with my old 24S. I had a 24 S-E that gave me absolute hell for a real long time with light strikes on the rifle barrel. After trying everything and anything and everyone’s else stupid suggestions, I finally realized that the lock up was just an itty bitty hair loose and that was what was causing the light strikes on my 22lr barrel. It wasnt loose or wobbly and it didn’t feel functionally loose meaning it wasn’t obvious or even noticable to anyone that lever looked at it, but I could have maybe slid a hair out from between the receiver and barrel after lock up. I used a straight up hammer and tapped on that hook-back towards the chambers-on the bottom of the barrel set that hooks up with/holds the forearm and pushes against the receiver with spring tension. It forced my barrels against the receiver just that tiny bit more tight. It’s uncovemtional and I got mocked and criticized a bit but That was the end of my light strike problems. Do a search on here and you’ll find some folks are all about their 24S, and the other half have had light strike issues. Good luck.
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Post by dravenguild on Dec 10, 2017 18:33:51 GMT -5
Okay I took your guy's advice and checked the lock up, tighter than a millionaire that was asked to tip!
And so then I compared the Smith's pin and the other pins I had obtained and you know what I found? The one the Smith made was slightly larger so it fit snuggly in the receiver.
What that meant in practice was that the one he made stuck straight forward when struck with the hammer, while for some reason the other pins had more clearance and that translated into, when being struck, they would angle up slightly leading to the head not hitting the rim 100%.
I don't know why this is the case, but I think I may sell this 24 because there is another not too far from me that is a .22 mag over .410 and it's an older model. This one doesn't seem to be worth the trouble it's putting me through.
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Post by dravenguild on Dec 30, 2017 13:52:17 GMT -5
Update for today, took it down to the Smith so he can attempt the mainspring plunger head modification to see if it gives the gun it's kick in the rear that it so desperately needs.
Will keep you guys informed.
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Post by santacruzpaul on Jan 24, 2018 20:29:36 GMT -5
Update for today, took it down to the Smith so he can attempt the mainspring plunger head modification to see if it gives the gun it's kick in the rear that it so desperately needs. Will keep you guys informed. Well, How did it go? Paul |
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Post by dravenguild on Jan 27, 2018 10:50:43 GMT -5
Well, How did it go?
Paul
[/quote]
He hasn't had the chance to get to it, says they are pretty backed up but as soon as I get info I will relay it here.
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