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Post by tzygmunt on Jun 22, 2018 22:17:51 GMT -5
I recently purchased a 24C-DL (22WMR/20 Gauge). The date code (P) makes it a 1963 model. I knew it was broken when I purchased it but I thought I could fix it. The problem appeared to be nothing more than a broken selector which is easily replaced. I took the receiver apart and cleaned all the parts. The selector pieces were still in the receiver so I could match it to a new selector from Jack First Gun Parts. I reassembled the receiver and tested the action with a 22 blank. It did not fire. The hammer made a dimple in the rim but it was apparently not hard enough to make it fire. I attached two pictures that show the hammer and the selector. Note that the hammer at rest is about ΒΌ inch or so from the selector. When I pull the trigger the hammer moves forward and apparently strikes the selector and firing pin but it is too fast to see. (If I place a piece of wood against the action and pull the trigger I get a nice dimple in the wood.) Is it normal for the hammer to have this rest position? Has anyone experienced a similar problem? I would appreciate any help that the membership can give. Ted   |
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Post by Mr. Polecat on Jun 23, 2018 8:47:32 GMT -5
What's your breech face look like? Is it possible it's been dry fired and made a dimple in the breech that's causing the trouble? Also, if you haven't done it already, remove the firing pin and spring (use a good hollow ground screwdriver the right size and let it soak with PB Blaster or something for a while; those little screws are REALLY easy to strip the heads out of) and clean out/derust it and the channel it moves in really good, spray in some graphite lube, and reassemble. There is also this www.cylindersmith.com/savage24/misfire.html , but I would leave that as a last resort. |
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Post by tzygmunt on Jun 23, 2018 12:01:39 GMT -5
Mr. Polecat
Thanks for the advice. The breach face looks good. I have removed the firing pins and cleaned them and the holes. The firing pins looked good but I'm not sure that I did a great job of cleaning the holes...just too small for any of my cleaning tools. I think that I will clean them again just to be sure.
The article you referenced was interesting. I may buy another mainspring plunger and try this fix. One thing I noted was that his plunger was bent while mine is straight.
My dad bought one of these for me when I was a kid. It was the same 24C-DL and it was NIB. It always fired and was pretty accurate. Don't know what happened to that one. Came back from the Navy and it was gone. I bought this one during a nostalgia attack so I'm disappointed that it doesn't work like my old one. but, never say die. I'll get it to work.
Thanks again.
Ted
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Post by northcoastbigbore on Jun 27, 2018 11:21:20 GMT -5
First post here, but I have a 22-410 that used to have a consistent FTF on the .22 barrel. Usually pulling the hammer repeatedly would eventually set it off, but the hammer spring was strong. Looking at MINE, the dimple on the rims was barely catching the edge of the shell. In fact it was beating the barrel faces all the to heck below the rim and had obviously been doing so for a long, long time. .410 barrel was centered and the barrels were on face, action was tight when locked. Following a suggestion on another forum, I ended up drilling the firing pin hole slightly larger (I can't remember the diameters) and then turned a new firing pin with a slightly larger tip. That solved the problem. It didn't look like the .22 barrel had been fired all that much in its life and I suspect it never worked properly. Works great now, haven't had a FTF since.
Recognize mine is a Stevens 22-410 not a Savage, but worth having a look.
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Post by neilrr on Jun 28, 2018 10:39:35 GMT -5
Ted,
Welcome to the forum. A thought for your to consider. If possible can you take a picture of the rim fire firing pin and a picture of the case rim where the firing pin has struck same? It would be interesting to see what shape they both are. If the rim fire firing pin is not shaped correctly, i.e. rounded or a very wide flat vertical edge instead of a thin flat vertical edge you will produce a dimple in the case rim and not a thin vertical line. By producing a dimple in the case rim instead of the thin vertical line there is insufficient force to set off the primer. Note, the shotgun firing pin should be rounded and produce a dimple in the center of the shotgun case. It would be interesting to see what you have. If the rim fire firing pin is not shaped correctly, is can possibly be corrected or a new one installed of the correct shape.
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Post by northcoastbigbore on Jun 28, 2018 14:34:21 GMT -5
Ted, Welcome to the forum. A thought for your to consider. If possible can you take a picture of the rim fire firing pin and a picture of the case rim where the firing pin has struck same? It would be interesting to see what shape they both are. If the rim fire firing pin is not shaped correctly, i.e. rounded or a very wide flat vertical edge instead of a thin flat vertical edge you will produce a dimple in the case rim and not a thin vertical line. By producing a dimple in the case rim instead of the thin vertical line there is insufficient force to set off the primer. Note, the shotgun firing pin should be rounded and produce a dimple in the center of the shotgun case. It would be interesting to see what you have. If the rim fire firing pin is not shaped correctly, is can possibly be corrected or a new one installed of the correct shape. This is a good thing to point out, in relation to my post above - when I made my new firing pin I did indeed create a 'chisel" point. I make firing pins from time to time so I didn't mention it, but this is correct. I've found confirmation (through my own experiences) that rimfires do prefer a narrow rectangle. Not universal, but a good rule of thumb. |
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Post by bigkelly on Jun 28, 2018 15:59:41 GMT -5
I've had to "gently" grind the face of 24 rimfire firing pins--this makes the pin extension slightly longer so as to have a more positive impact in the cartridge
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Post by tzygmunt on Jun 28, 2018 18:46:52 GMT -5
Thanks to all of you...bigkelly, northcoastbigbore and neilrr. Good information. I will take the photos requested and post them in the next day or so. I purchased more parts including new firing pins (rifle and shotgun). I'll check them for shape and compare them to the old ones. I'll report back.
Ted
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Post by tzygmunt on Jun 28, 2018 18:54:35 GMT -5
One more thing. I also purchased a new main spring. It is longer than the old one by a little less than a 1/4 inch. Any thoughts on this. I'm concerned that I might not be able to cock the hammer because the spring will go solid before it latches on the trigger. I'll try it though. I have taken this action apart and put it back together so many times I could do it in my sleep.
Ted
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Post by northcoastbigbore on Jun 29, 2018 12:22:31 GMT -5
No input on that specifically Ted, although you can certainly shorten it if need be; I am fairly certain I changed mine as well and the new spring was longer than the old one with no issues.
Mine has a coil in it, I presume yours is also a coil. But if it is a flat spring then shortening (if necessary) is still fine, just use a hacksaw to avoid overheating it, make certain it's a square cut; and carefully smooth and polish after the cut.
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Post by tzygmunt on Jun 29, 2018 18:42:18 GMT -5
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Post by neilrr on Jun 30, 2018 7:49:50 GMT -5
Ted,
The photos are very helpful. The longer spring will make cocking the gun harder and my become spring bound due to its additional length. When you cock the gun do it slowly while watching the spring, and if it starts to become spring bound stop cocking the hammer as you may damage the hammer strut. The diameter of the old spring and new look the same as well as the number of coils per inch. If the spring came from Numrich, please be aware that their parts are not always fabricated correctly. I purchased a replacement rifle firing pin from them only to find that the vertical flat was ground wrong. When the pin was placed in the gun the firing pin's flat surface was horizontal, not vertical. I had to take a shotgun firing pin and reshape it to use as a rifle firing pin. If the new spring does not work then as bigkelly stated you may need to reshape the existing rifle firing pin. From your photos the firing pin's flat face that strikes the case's rim seems a little thick and possibly not flat. It is also possible that the firing pin is too short and does not protrude sufficiently from the breach face to fire the round. If would be very helpful if you have any cases, especially ones that did not fire, that you can show us so that we can see what the strike area on the rim looks like? Good luck and let us know what happens.
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Post by tzygmunt on Jun 30, 2018 17:40:53 GMT -5
Well guys.....It works! I can fire both the 22 WMR and The 20 Gauge Consistently. Thanks to all of you. I used your insights and it worked. Here is what I did.
I reshaped the old rifle firing pin with a file to look like a wedge. I installed it and then installed the old shot gun firing pin. Then came the selector and then the locking bolt assembly and all its little spring things.
I installed a new hammer that was a smidgen (that's a technical term that as a PE I'm licensed to use) Larger than the old one. I installed the main spring and plunger./ I decided to use the old spring first.
I put a 22 blank in the barrel and it fired.  . Tried it again and it didn't fire  . I tried more....about 7 times it fired and 4 didn't. The shot gun didn't fire at all.
I remembered the article that polecat recommended. It described how to bend the main spring plunger assembly so that it pushed the hammer forward a little more. 
This was the solution. It is now firing consistently, both the rifle and the shot gun.
Thanks guys. The team work paid off. I attached photos of the hammer before and after. Ted
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. Tried it again and it didn't fire 
. I tried more....about 7 times it fired and 4 didn't. The shot gun didn't fire at all. 
