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Post by sidewinder on Jun 3, 2013 15:48:40 GMT -5
Ditto on having other rifles that are better for shooting a whitetail deer at 200 yards. I also have some chambered in .243 and .223 bolt, even though i probably wouldn't use the .223 for deer... it's more a "coyote" gun.
I was just curious as to the max limits on the .357 Max & Mag. There probably wouldn't bee too much squirrel left after being smacked with a .357 Mag/Max! Ammo is so expensive that I'd have to pick up a set of dies for my old RCBS Rock Chucker, so I could afford to shoot it! I don't cast any bullets, so I'd have to buy them.
As you stretch the legs of that .357 Max modification, please keep us up to date on the performance. Thanks.
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petemi
Will probably stay
Posts: 69
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Post by petemi on Jun 3, 2013 18:09:38 GMT -5
Sidewinder, if I didn't reload, my guns would be museum pieces. The Max is not all that expensive to load for. Think of it as a ".38 Long Rifle". Seriously, once you have the brass, it's a straight wall and lasts for close to forever. You can load it as soft as you'd like with cast lead bullets or blazing hot loads with expensive jacketed bullets. It's your option. It's still a heck of a lot cheaper than buying factory ammo with mediocre performance. When I say that, I'm thinking of ammo for rifles like the .38-55, .45-70, etc. that manufacturers have to keep to very mild levels because of the old rifles they may be used in.
And yes, your Maxi can be a squirrel rifle. .38 brass, little 110 or 125 gr. bullet, a touch of Trail boss and you have a squirrel rifle. I use mine all the time for small game and pests. A slow .38 will do less meat damage than a .22.
Any way you slice it, the Maxi is just fun and a reliable tool.
Pete
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Post by sidewinder on Jun 4, 2013 13:58:20 GMT -5
Petemi, thanks for that information. Do you get your loading recipes from the powder manufacturer's manuals, or from some online listing? I'll bet you crack the other hunters up, when you tell them you're squirrel hunting with a .357Max! I haven't gotten into casting my own bullets yet. I went around to the automotive shops looking for wheel weights. Some told me they had to account for all of them, and some said they were made of another type alloy these days. no doubt, there's some money savings there too. Where do you get most of your lead? We can't let that Savage 24 .357 Max become a museum piece... that's not what they were designed for!
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Post by bigkelly on Jun 4, 2013 16:39:17 GMT -5
Petemi I've begun reloading 357 max also What powder do you prefer?what grain weight? I had a re-loading vendor at the last gun show tell me that you should only use 357 rifle bullets when reloading 357max or they may 'disintergrate 'when fired BUT a buddy of mine who I know is a reloading GURU said thats BS. any thoughts?
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Post by sidewinder on Jun 9, 2013 0:16:15 GMT -5
Question for Petemi, Big Kelly, Odell, and others... I found the .357 barrel twist on a website as this: .357 Magnum 1 in 18 3/4"....... or 1 in 15 1/2" .357 Maximum 1 in 18 3/4"
Is there an indication anywhere on the .357 "Magnum" barrel that would indicate whether the barrel twist is 1 in 18 3/4" or if it's 1 in 15 1/2"? Any ideas as to why some .357 Magnum barrel twist would be 1 in 18 3/4" and others would be 15 1/2"? Would it have anything to do with the differences in the 20" 24VS barrel?
Obviously, if reaming a .357 Magnum (1 in 18 3/4") into a .357 Maximum of (1 in 18 3/4") twist barrel things should be pretty normal. However, if reaming the .357 Magnum ( 1 in 15 1/2") twist barrel into a .357 Maximum, things could be significantly different. As most know, barrel twist "can" have a significant affect on bullet behavior, and accuracy, after it leaves the barrel.
Does anyone know for sure they have the .357 Magnum in the 15 1/2" twist barrel? If so, can you educate the rest of us on the particulars of your gun? We're all starving for Savage 24 knowledge! Thanks.
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Post by odell23 on Jun 10, 2013 8:52:21 GMT -5
Since both the 357 Mag and Max are only found in the 24V Series D line, and the 24VS is just a 24V Series D with chopped barrels, I can't imagine 2 different twist rates. Savage did change twist rates on .222 Rem and .223 Rem but that was because .222 Rem started in 1966 in the original 24V, went through 5 Series changes, and then continued in the new model 24F-12T before ending in the 1990's. The .223 Rem started in the 24V Series D line (early 1980's) then the 24F-12T and the 24F Predator before production ceased in 2007.
I don't have my catalogs with me right now, but I'll check and see what Savage reported on thier twist rate and report back.
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Post by sidewinder on Jun 10, 2013 16:40:22 GMT -5
Thanks Odell23, to be open and honest, I must say I did not find that information on a Savage Model 24 related website. The site was just listing twist rates for various rounds. Possibly, the 1 in 15 1/2" was listed to pertain to pistol barrels, as in the Thompson and other long barrel hand guns. I'm just always trying to find every nugget of information I can find, on the Savage Model 24 guns, and therefore run across some strange stuff sometimes.
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Post by odell23 on Jun 11, 2013 16:20:15 GMT -5
sidewinder-
Check your private messages.
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Post by savagecombo on Jun 11, 2013 20:21:04 GMT -5
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Post by sidewinder on Jun 11, 2013 23:57:32 GMT -5
sidewinder- Check your private messages. Sent two replies tonight, but you were probably already off line. Please let me know what you think of my concerns on the second one. I feel like sometimes I can't see the mountains for the mole hills! Thanks for your help.
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petemi
Will probably stay
Posts: 69
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Post by petemi on Jun 13, 2013 12:40:44 GMT -5
Petemi I've begun reloading 357 max also What powder do you prefer?what grain weight? I had a re-loading vendor at the last gun show tell me that you should only use 357 rifle bullets when reloading 357max or they may 'disintergrate 'when fired BUT a buddy of mine who I know is a reloading GURU said thats BS. any thoughts? I'm sorry for not getting back here sooner. I've had a rotten late Spring cold and no energy. AA1680 seems to be the preferred powder, but I wasn't able to find any until recently, and I haven't tried it in the Max yet. I have loaded it in a 16.75 inch 445 Super Magnum with excellent results. In the Max 16.5 inch I'm getting a very accurate 2150 fps with the Hornady 180 gr. SSP and 23.7 gr. Lil Gun. This load came from a friend using a 180 gr. Speer. I might add, I started lower and worked up to his data without any pressure signs. Most of my loads are right off the powder manufacturer's tables. I think the velocities you can attain with anything .357 mag or max are too low for any bullet to even think about coming apart. What they do on game could be another issue entirely. I've heard of bullets disintegrating before hitting the target at velocities of 3500 or 4000+ fps. I don't want to be around when you do that with a Max. My Savage is on a holiday in Texas, so I can't check the twist for you. My Handis are 18 3/4. Sidewinder, I don't cast bullets. The few cast I shoot come from Montana or Missouri. I only shoot them in the .445 and .32-20s. I would think either twist would work fine. Each best with a specific weight bullet and velocity. The faster twist might stabilize a heavier bullet better. 180s are the heaviest I shoot, so it really doesn't matter to me. When I go 200, I use my .356/.358. If you shoot a lot of low velocity .38s in a maxi, you'll get a crud ring in the chamber. I find you're better off shooting Mag or Max cases loaded with something like Trail Boss for small game. A slow moving .38 caliber bullet actually does less meat damage than a hot .22LR. My all round favorite rifles for small, medium game, and varmints are my .32-20s. A Marlin and a custom Handi. I can shoot them from 500 fps to 2300 fps. They recoil and feel like a Daisy Red Ryder. Pete
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Post by sidewinder on Jun 13, 2013 14:10:43 GMT -5
Pete, thanks for sharing your reloading knowledge with us. Sorry to hear you're suffering from the dreaded spring/summer cold. The recipe there for cure, is chicken soup...for sure! Hope you're feeling better soon, and can get out and enjoy some shooting.
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Post by odell23 on Jun 29, 2013 13:39:24 GMT -5
Okay, it took me a while to get back to researching this information. The Model 24V Series D began in 1979 as well as the .357 S&W magnum chambering. In 1980 the stock/receiver fit changed from the ball and socket to the flush straight line fit. 1982 was the last year of the .357 S&W magnum. 1983 was the first year of the .357 Remington Maximum. It is unknown what happened after this, but I surmise no .357 chamberings were produced after 1983. No catalog after this point has them.
Both the .357 magnum and maximum in the Model 24 a listed to have 1 in 12" right hand twist.
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Post by vancmike on Jul 4, 2013 13:11:04 GMT -5
To address those posts above re: cast bullets....I started casting bullets some years ago and essentially built up about a 5 life-time supply of Lee wadcutter and Keith SWC-GC. Notwithstanding, I've also bought too many cast from Missouri, Penn, and LaserCast.
Lately, due to the gun insanity situation, I may have to go back to casting my own. If I do, it won't be with wheel-weights: my local tire stores are all using some sort of glue-on plastic weight....not bullet friendly at all.
One can still go to a metal salvage yard and buy lead at the current price: about 45 cents/lb., and if there are wheel-weights, about half that.
For your .357 Max, I'd recommend LaserCast, if you can find some. Their bullets are hard enough to withstand the higher velocities, yet still perform well on critters.
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Post by greg Weckerly on Mar 31, 2015 10:26:59 GMT -5
have a 24V D 357/20ga in great condition that I will be putting on gun broker in a few weeks. That is unless I find someone who wants to buy it before then. Pics available.
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