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Post by azranch on Jan 19, 2014 11:01:02 GMT -5
Just curious, How are the barrels attached to the block in a 24V? Threaded ?
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scott
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Post by scott on Jan 19, 2014 22:20:12 GMT -5
I asked this question as well recently. It sounds as if some may be brazed, and others are just pressed in and pinned. My 24V appears to have the pinned variety and I'm considering pulling one barrel out of the block so I can cut/crown them on my lathe, and thread the shotgun barrel for a choke adapter.
To date, I haven't found anybody who's actually pulled the barrels out of the block so I'm still on the fence about trying it.
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Post by txbob on Jan 20, 2014 12:06:36 GMT -5
I asked this question as well recently. It sounds as if some may be brazed, and others are just pressed in and pinned. My 24V appears to have the pinned variety and I'm considering pulling one barrel out of the block so I can cut/crown them on my lathe, and thread the shotgun barrel for a choke adapter. To date, I haven't found anybody who's actually pulled the barrels out of the block so I'm still on the fence about trying it.Aw come on Scott take one for the team (forum). LOL. If you do let us know what the results are. |
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scott
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Post by scott on Jan 20, 2014 17:07:26 GMT -5
You know I will. It just feels good to know I'm not going to mess things up ahead of time.
One idea that someone tossed out on another forum is to hit the inside of one barrel with freeze spray to shrink it and then slide it out. I might try that tonight.
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scott
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Post by scott on Jan 20, 2014 17:08:11 GMT -5
You know I will. It just feels good to know I'm not going to mess things up ahead of time.
One idea that someone tossed out on another forum is to hit the inside of one barrel with freeze spray to shrink it and then slide it out. I might try that tonight.
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Post by azranch on Jan 21, 2014 11:14:39 GMT -5
Thanks for the reply's, I am tied yup for a couple of days but I will look at my 24V and see if I see a pin. Let me know what you find out.
Thanks again
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scott
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Post by scott on Jan 21, 2014 14:37:12 GMT -5
Mine had the pin near the front end of the breech block, right between the barrels so it keys into both of them... You should also look carefully at the breech front and rear ends of the breech block where the barrel/block interface is and inspect for signs of solder or braze.
What are you planning that you need to know this by the way?
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Post by azranch on Jan 22, 2014 12:54:16 GMT -5
I'm just curious, I don't see any sign of solder/brazing. I just had knee surgery and can't get to my shop to check for pins.What started all this is I'm building one of DeHass's single shots and I don't like inside threading. ( Read -I'm not a good enough machinist to be good at it.) The caliber will be .22 K hornet and I'm looking for a simpler way to attach the barrel.
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scott
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Post by scott on Jan 22, 2014 14:46:49 GMT -5
gotcha.
Think of it this way, if you practice enough to cut a decent thread before you build the gun, then you've 1) bettered youself by mastering a skill 2) avoided modifying a known working design with unknown results.
Personally, I think a threaded barrel would be more secure and stronger than a pressed and pinned unit, but that part is personal opinion.
If you haven't found it yet, go to youtube and search for "mrpete222". The guy is a retired high school machine shop teacher and has posted a couple hundred detailed instructional videos on just about every aspect of machine work you might need help on.
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Post by azranch on Jan 22, 2014 17:04:20 GMT -5
Thanks
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Post by azranch on Jan 24, 2014 14:27:29 GMT -5
Answering my own question here, The barrels are silver brazed in place.
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scott
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Post by scott on Jan 24, 2014 17:23:13 GMT -5
Just for the sake of posterity, what series of 24V do you have, and where was the solder visible?
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Post by aranch on Jan 26, 2014 11:04:23 GMT -5
I have a 24 V- F, or so I'm told. (.223 over 20ga. with the grouse engraving) The solder is not visible on my gun. I also belong to a gunsmithing site ( homegunsmith.com )and posted the same question there. One of the Gunsmiths answered my question. This site is not free, It costs a min. of $ 10 but if you have questions it is well worth it. For instance; I posted on this site and others a question on headspce on this same Savage. Got no response except from the homegunsmith, the response came in about 4 hours and it came with detailed instructions and a DRAWING of how to repair the gun. He also informed me that, given the history of the gun the barrels and action may not be from the same gun. I bought this gun as a bluing project from a pawn shop for $ 100.00. It worked but had a headspace problem which, given the caliber, indicated that the barrels were from a different gun. ( you don't get frame stretch in .223 very often). The bluing on the gun was worn off in places and I always wanted one of these guns and, most importantly, the price was right. I can not say enough good things about the gunsmithing site, if you are realy into the smithing part. Detailed pictures on repair and building guns. Want to build one of DeHass's single shots?- 13 pages of photos of the build along with comments and tricks of the trade. Amazing. I thank you for your interest in my post.
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Post by azranch on Jan 26, 2014 16:31:58 GMT -5
Sorry for the typos, .222 not .223
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scott
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Post by scott on Jan 26, 2014 22:06:54 GMT -5
the 24V and 24V-A might be the only pinned models since they were the only ones with the big monoblock breech.
I'll have to check that site out. I'm relatively new to gunsmithing, but am an amateur machinist and a former professional metalsmith. A lot of what I already know crosses over nicely.
You got a pretty awesome deal on your rifle. I thought I did pretty well on mine, but had to put more than $100 into it just to get it into shooting condition.
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