|
|
Post by captcapsize on Feb 12, 2014 7:15:37 GMT -5
If so, how does that work for you and what mods might be a workable solution to the problem of seeing around the scope. Since I mainly use mine for squirrel hunting sometimes I flush a grouse but never get a shot off. I need a strong scope for squirrel. I am wondering if a 1.5-10 power scope might be the answer.
|
|
petemi
Will probably stay
Posts: 69
|
Post by petemi on Feb 14, 2014 17:15:57 GMT -5
Ya ain't gonna get a shot at a flying grouse through a scope. You can shoot him on the ground or on a branch, but that's it. Forget about the scope...a lot of times, perhaps most times, they're gone before you can put the brass bead on them. I tried shooting pigeons coming into a silo with a red dot one time. Forget it. They were in sight for a while, but you still couldn't line up on them. You don't stand a prayer with a grouse unless you're a lot better than I am....that's not too difficult. I'm trying see through rings. I think It'll work fine for stationary targets or even pigeons, but I still have my doubts about it working with flying grouse. That is usually snap shooting at best.
Pete
|
|
|
|
Post by cas on Feb 14, 2014 23:18:23 GMT -5
Yeah I was thinking the same thing. Ignoring the rear sight, looking over it and using the front sight like a bead….. IF the selector was in the right position, MAYBE you could get a shot off. Even then I kind of doubt it, thumbing act the hammer isn't that fast.
|
|
|
|
Post by loganboone on Feb 15, 2014 0:04:36 GMT -5
Wingshooting with 24s isn't that hard, I do it alot. Granted, with a scope mounted it is tougher, it's still possible. I look over the scope, mounted as low as possible.
|
|
|
|
Post by woodsbum on Feb 15, 2014 8:30:46 GMT -5
I've never been able to use a scope for grouse on the wing or any fast flushing game for that matter. That's why a few years ago I took the fixed 2.5 power scope off the 24V. My experience with "see through mounts" was that to use the scope I had to lift my head high and to look through the mounts I had to look under it to see the front bead and folding rear leaf. All that took time and by the time I was looking through the intended window, my fast flushing game was gone. Regular scope mounts put you on the proper sight plane, but unless the game is sitting or walking (yes I am a meat hunter) it's long gone. I generally carry the 24V with the selector set on the shotgun barrel. As someone who is a fan of "hammer firearms" I don't have a problem cocking the hammer as the gun comes up. I do have an offset hammer extension mounted. This is a leftover from the scope days. When you think about it, a scope really doesn't add much to the usefulness of this firearm, unless the intended target is very slow moving or sitting as in turkey or predator hunting. Here in the brushy Northeast, even the shots while predator calling tend to be of the close up and personal type. At what I consider reasonable shotgun slug range for a smoothbore (about 50 yds) the rear folding leaf sight is just fine for larger game.
|
|
petemi
Will probably stay
Posts: 69
|
Post by petemi on Feb 15, 2014 8:48:49 GMT -5
I'm a Handiholic. I have about sixteen Handi Rifles, so pulling the hammer back as the gun comes up is reflex. The thing I have a problem with is lining up three things with these old eyes....the target, the front and rear sights. I need a scope. I don't have any problem with the front sight and target, so a shotgun works fine for me. If I don't scope it, the rifle barrel is next to useless for me.
Pete
|
|
|
|
Post by cas on Feb 15, 2014 13:52:51 GMT -5
You shouldn't be using the rear sight. Maybe not even the front sight. Especially since the 24's are rarely regulated, using the rear sight on aerial targets, assuming you even could, might be doing more harm than good.
As a teenager, I learned to shoot a shotgun, shoot trap and skeet with my 24. It was mostly pointing. That's why I say it shouldn't be any different than any other shotgun. Ignore the rear sight.
Of course if you're the type of shotgun shooter who needs to get down on the stock and look down a flat rib at a bead, that isn't going to work. But I'm not since I didn't shoot and "real" shotguns till much later in life. We had lots of shotguns, but they were all slug guns with rifle sights.
|
|
|
|
Post by cw on Feb 15, 2014 20:34:56 GMT -5
You shouldn't be using the rear sight. Maybe not even the front sight. Especially since the 24's are rarely regulated, using the rear sight on aerial targets, assuming you even could, might be doing more harm than good. As a teenager, I learned to shoot a shotgun, shoot trap and skeet with my 24. It was mostly pointing. That's why I say it shouldn't be any different than any other shotgun. Ignore the rear sight. Of course if you're the type of shotgun shooter who needs to get down on the stock and look down a flat rib at a bead, that isn't going to work. But I'm not since I didn't shoot and "real" shotguns till much later in life. We had lots of shotguns, but they were all slug guns with rifle sights. I agree!!
Shooting a shotgun is totally different then shooting a rifle. TOTALLY!
First off, when shooting a rifle, it is aimed. The rifle is put to the shoulder, adjusted to ''feel'' right. The head is firmly planted to the cheek of the butt and you look thru the sites or scope. You AIM at the target with the sites, slowly and deliberately squeeze the trigger.
Shooting a shotgun is like throwing a base ball or football. NO SIGHTS and body English and follow through. With a shotgun it needs to "fit" the shooter. It comes to the shoulder and everything is aligned, your eye should be looking right down the barrel. When you shoot game or clays, you look at the target, not the sites, bead, stock barrel for arm or ANYTHING but that bird... Its a smooth flow, the shotgun is a extension of your arms. Swing up form behind, overtake and squeeze a shot as you continue tracking past the ''bird''. If you take the time to look for sites, beads or scope. Or align your face, adjust the fit to your shoulder, your might as well save the shell, cause all your gonna do is miss.
If your gonna need a 24 for shooting flushed birds, I recommend open sites or (perish the thought) Shoot thru rings. I say that cause I really hate them. BUT I have to acknowledge that this is the single platform that they may be perfectly designed for...
The 24, don't really ''fit'' like a shotgun, but for me not bad. I have shot 17/25 with my 410 on a trap field. (I average 23/25, 20/16/12ga usually) I haven't had my 20ga out yet, but as I have found the DL shoots so far to one side, I don't really expect it to shoot so well. 
CW
|
|
|
|
Post by captcapsize on Feb 16, 2014 19:51:15 GMT -5
Yep, I was thinking pretty much the same thing. Wing shooting with a scope on would be a waste of ammo especially on grouse. So far the ones I have flushed were gone before I could say what was that.
|
|
|
|
Post by anthony on Mar 15, 2014 21:04:48 GMT -5
I have a side mount on my 30-30 Win 94 that works well for medium range shots and I can see the iron sites for jump shooting. One of my Ruger 10/22s has a "peep through" scope mount that I like. I never used either on a shotgun, but I don't know why they wouldn't work. Just don't knock your eye out.
|
|
|
|
Post by DWS33 on Mar 16, 2014 10:42:42 GMT -5
Try a reflex sight mounted so it is on the same side as your head or better still, a 1" scope ring and Picatinny base that is double sided, ie places to mount rings accessories on both sides. I have a Rem 722 in .300 Savage that has mounts with a pair of open sights on the top sections of the rings. The sight radius is like 6" good enough for 25 yards.
|
|
|
|
Post by jrguerra on Mar 25, 2014 7:50:25 GMT -5
I wonder if an old Weaver Quikpoint could be modified to use for wing shooting. Its pretty fast to use.  The one above is for the Remington 870 Wingmaster. |
|
