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Post by hunterchub on Feb 18, 2014 20:22:57 GMT -5
Im having a tough time getting a scope to work on my 24 v. I have a Weaver #74 base which is what is recommended for the 24 v.
I then put standard 1 inch scope rings on it. Just purchased a Redfield 4-12 X 40 scope for the gun. BTW, it is a 222 Rem over 20 gauge.
What the problem is that when I mount and bore check the scope. I cant adjust the scope up any more and its shooting 5 inches low at 100 yards.
Is this a common problem with this gun or does someone have advise. Im stumped!
Thanks,
Scott
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Post by justaboutgeese on Feb 18, 2014 21:25:02 GMT -5
You might end up shimming the base
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Post by cw on Feb 19, 2014 7:40:41 GMT -5
Couple things,
first no it's not common.
Take a good look at the base and rings be sure they are properly mounted. Don't take anything for granted mistakes happen. Base should be snug to barrel. Sometimes on older guns the holes can be fl of lock tire and not snug or even allow base to fit properly. Then rings, be sure both are same height. Then swap them front to back. Lastly look at the scope. Is it a new one to you or proven good scope you have used before? Not impossible it's just the scope.
You can re center the turrets with a mirror or by turning to the light stop and then counting clicks back to opposite stop. Decide by half to center turret.
Do you have different scope to try?
Shimming is a option for slight adjustments. 6" at 100 yards is not slight. Kinking the tube to get that much is a distinct possibility.
CW
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Post by hunterchub on Feb 19, 2014 8:07:11 GMT -5
Thanks for your replies. I have thought of shimming. We have tried two different scopes (both new) and two different brands. Nikon and Redfield. I will carefully check the screws and base again but I dont believe it to be the problem. Can you explain kinking the scope.Im not sure I completely understand recentering the turrets will do.
Thanks,
Scott
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Post by cw on Feb 19, 2014 11:22:25 GMT -5
You could also simply have a bad base...
CAREFULLY Level the gun in your gun vice then check level of the base....
Kinking will result of shimming too much. 5-6" is ALLOT! To shim out!
Re entering the turrets sometimes helps get all avalible adjustment from the scope.
CW
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Post by txbob on Feb 19, 2014 13:48:25 GMT -5
You can take a good machinist square and check if the top of your barrel or base is 90
degrees to the breech. This will be a quick check to show if the top is not parallel
to the bore. My 24V had a very slight taper and I had it machined It only took a light
clean up cut which showed that it also was not flat and square from side to side, which
is not a big deal for a scope. Hope it is a simple fix.
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Post by Hunterchub on Feb 19, 2014 20:10:53 GMT -5
Thanks for all the suggestions. I looked through this site and found that Burris Signature series has shims that come with the scope rings.
I may try this unless someone here says they are not good. I will also check for level as well.
Thanks,
Scott
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Post by mstreman on Mar 14, 2014 9:04:27 GMT -5
Aside from knowing true mechanical center for your scope. You run it out to reset possible mechanical/tension problems. The crosshair tube sits in gimbals (which are typically supported by a single spring on each axis of adjustment). In a hard shock or at runout, the gimbal can jump out of the socket but not off the spring entirely. Running the adjustment in both direction then recentering can give it a chance to slip back into the socket. If you are at/near max adjustment, I suspect that the spring is decompressed to the point that the crosshair tube doesn't have enough tension to keep it registered against the shock of shooting.( a common problem with cheap scopes)
Kinking (bowing). Too much shim can bend the tube such that the optical path is no longer aligned through the crosshair tube and objective and eyepiece lenses. No amount of moving the adjustment turrets can bring them back into alignment. Also if your ring mounts don't naturally meet up over tightening can flatten the tube causing similar optical alignment issues. These mis alignments may not be easily visible to the casual eye. Check tube roundness with a caliper.
You shouldn't have to go to max adjustment to get normal zero. Something is mis-matched or damaged.
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