|
Post by captcapsize on Mar 15, 2014 21:31:48 GMT -5
SO now that I found out that my .223/20 is a shooter I need to lighten the trigger pull. It must be 20-25 pounds! After shooting about 50 rounds during load development my index and middle fingers were sore and bruised. I was having to use both fingers to spread the pain around some. Has anyone successfully done a trigger pull reduction job on a 24?
|
|
|
Post by anthony on Mar 15, 2014 22:08:24 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by cw on Mar 16, 2014 18:44:13 GMT -5
If that's a true weight you likely have a problem inside the gun!!!
On my DL someone changed the hammer. The angles are wrong so if you look closely, the hammer moves slightly REARWARD before releasing to fire. The weight on it is about 10#.
CW
|
|
|
Post by captcapsize on Mar 16, 2014 18:58:01 GMT -5
Thanks for that, I forgot about that site.
|
|
|
Post by sneektip on Mar 18, 2014 14:10:43 GMT -5
From what I've been exposed to in the world of Ruger 10/22s, this is the safest way. So that dropping your gun cannot cause the hammer to fall. But I'm not a real gunsmith. Maybe the two VERY different actions don't even work the same way? I haven't gotten around to the trigger yet. But it's on THE LIST. Let us know how the job goes. Good luck.
Apparently I don't know how to do partial quotes.
|
|
|
Post by captcapsize on Mar 19, 2014 14:20:24 GMT -5
Update on the trigger job. Did it yesterday, took most of the day but man it was worth it. Found that the hammer/trigger sear engagement has rough machining grooves that you could feel with your finger nail. I stoned them off smooth and now it feels like about 4-5 lbs. Not great but fine for a hunting rifle. Broke the hair like trigger spring reassembling the gun, made a new one out of ss fishing leader works fine. BTW, the parts breakdown pics I could find didn't resemble my model 24 at all so had to wing it.
|
|
|
Post by vancmike on Mar 28, 2014 13:59:06 GMT -5
Broke the hair like trigger spring reassembling the gun, made a new one out of ss fishing leader works fine...
I remember doing my first trigger job on my 1958-vintage Mdl 24 a couple of years after I bought it. A kindly neighbor helped me do it; the trigger return spring had broken and he thought we might as well do a trigger honing job while we were at it.
He constructed/cut a trigger return spring from one of his wife's hair curlers (we didn't have SS fishing leader in those days!). It's still working today.
FWIW, several years later, my '54 Chev had a broken lifter spring. Couldn't find one in stock, so as a temporary fix, the mechanic took a couple of his wife's hair curlers and replaced the spring. Was still working fine when I sold it, several years later. It's too bad fashions have changed....those hair curlers were useful!
|
|
|
Post by sneektip on Mar 28, 2014 16:26:18 GMT -5
Way to go, Capt'n! Thanks for the update.
|
|
lc92
Rank Stranger
Posts: 4
|
Post by lc92 on Apr 5, 2014 17:55:01 GMT -5
Heres something I posted back in January of 2012 on the old board.
Harbor Freight had one of their tiny table top belt sanders on sale for $39.00 plus tax so I bought one. Figured I'd try a trigger job on my 24.
I bought some 120 grit belts for the unit and set it up on my bench. After I squared the table to the belt I experimented with some scrap pieces until I thought I had a good handle on the units operation.
After looking at the trigger job instructions of the Savage 24 FAQ, I figured I was ready. I had already tried the job with an Arkansas stone and the trigger was so hard I gave up. I blackened the triggers sear with a Sharpie so I could see where I was cutting and started.
Per the FAQ, I cut, tested, cut, tested, and each time marked the metal with the Sharpie to keep the cut straight. Took about 6 test fittings before all the creep went away. I cut a smidge more and called it good. I used the Arkansas stone to take the keen edge off the new cut, lubed it all up and put it together.
I know have a most satisfactory creep free trigger. The pull weight on my old RCBS trigger pull scale varies between 3.5 and 5#, depending on where you hook it. At the tip its' 3.5# and 5# near the center.
I figure I paid $48.00 for a trigger job and have a nice little belt sander left over. Pretty good deal in my book.
|
|
|
Post by captcapsize on Apr 5, 2014 19:29:31 GMT -5
I redid mine yesterday to lighten it up a bit more. I did it without pulling the guts out of the receiver, I just stoned the trigger sear a bit more now it is about 2-3 lbs. My trigger pull scale only goes up to one pound (I like light trigger on my competition guns) so had to guess on the actual pull weight. If I had the gun reassembled I could use weights to check but am fitting a new recoil pad right now.
|
|
|
Post by chuckles on Apr 5, 2014 22:18:01 GMT -5
I believe this post has given me the confidence to tackle the trigger on my 24. I will post back with the outcome. This forum has proven to be a wonderful resource. The trigger pull is the only complaint I have so far and I can see why these firearms have such a following.
|
|
|
Post by jimfromtrafalgar on Apr 6, 2014 11:41:48 GMT -5
Hello, I'm new hear. I signed up to learn more about these guns before buying one. My first gun was,[from what I can tell], a 24B-DL in 22WMR/410. I took many a rabbit starting at age 11, and also got my first pheasant with mine. It was stolen and I've been wanting one to replace it since. Just never found one that matched the first well. Anyway, enough on the introduction, and I apologize if I'm stepping out of line as a brand new member here. However, I do a good bit of gunsmithing, mostly on better doubles, custom rifles, and older pistols. Please take this as intended. Getting a good trigger pull, or attempting to do so, is one of the most common problems brought my way. This is usually after someone has managed to mess things up considerably, and often entails having new metal welded in, to replace what's been removed in the attempt. A couple of things to keep in mind. One is that changing sear or notch angles should be the last resort tried. Most often simply polishing any place where metal touches metal is a very good start. A lite polish to the sear and notch areas is then plenty. Another thing to keep in mind is that you have two different requirements on a combo gun. A shotgun very seldom benefits from anything below around a 3.5 lb pull. You're pulling more than squeezing while shooting at a moving target, and anything lighter can easily be bumped off at the wrong time. This in mind, it can be nice to have a rifle trigger break below that level, but in reality, it's only needed when target shooting. A 3-4 lb. pull is often plenty lite for hunting purposes. I guess what I'm saying here is that for the intended use of this gun, trying to get a lighter pull may cause more problems than it solves, winding up with something expensive to repair. Just my 2 cents worth. Jim
|
|
petemi
Will probably stay
Posts: 69
|
Post by petemi on Apr 8, 2014 8:00:41 GMT -5
Jim, you said a mouthful. I hunt with gloves most of our seasons. I don't want or need a hair trigger. My normal hunting reflex is to simultaneously pull the hammer back and put my trigger finger through the guard. I don't need a shot going where I don't want it. I keep most of my trigger pulls a tad high for that reason.....3-4 lbs.
|
|
|
Post by 24forever on Apr 30, 2014 0:50:42 GMT -5
Hello guys, I'm also a newbie here on the board. I've been a Model 24 fan since my youthful days back in 1960's New England. Long story short, I lost track of guns and hunting for about 35 years and got back to the sport a few years ago. A friend heard me talk about the good old days with my '24 and he returned 5 minutes later with a nice 1963 Model SE, .22/410 in wooden furniture. You want it, he asked? YOU BET!!! So now I'm in the process of restoring it with all the love that my old 24 gave me so long ago!
Now...onto topic...TRIGGERS! This is the last thing I need to work on. Trigger pull is very hard...I need to measure it, but I estimate 10 lbs or so. This is unacceptable for the .22 in particular, as it pulls you off target. I'd like to get it down to about 4 or 5 pounds.
I read over the illustrated trigger job procedure that is here on this website for a 24C, Series P. But according to the Numrich schematics, my trigger on the SE is different, plus, getting the trigger assembly out of the action requires a different procedure. I'm being very cautious and want to completely understand the SE particulars before I start stoning. I have a few questions perhaps you gents can please assist me with:
1) Will stoning the TOP SURFACE ONLY of the sear (as shown in the photos) reduce trigger pulling force, or will it only take care of creep and overtravel? If so...what amount of force reduction can be expected from this procedure?
2) Approximately how much material needs to be removed? Are we talking just a micro polish, or is considerably more material removal necessary, like 0.001 or 0.002"?
3) Captcapsize implied that he polished and/or took material off at other places in the trigger assembly. Capt...can you please comment more on exactly what you did to yours?
4) Does anybody have good closeup photos of the trigger parts before/after the trigger job was done?
Hope I'm not making too big a deal out of this, but I don't want to mess up the trigger by going too far, as I know parts for these guns are rather scarce. I do have a good amount of mechanical skills but I have never stoned a trigger before. Can never be too careful!
Thanks, fellas. I'll be sure to post photos of my gun as soon as it is all put back together.
|
|
|
Post by captcapsize on May 1, 2014 16:10:22 GMT -5
As I just posted on another thread here, I stoned both surfaces. Mine were very rough, I carefully stoned with a very fine and small arkansas stone. I only stoned enough to take the ridges off and polish the surfaces. A triangular stone about 1/4"x1/4" x 4 or so inches long works the best. Just pretend you are doing micro dental work.
|
|