|
|
Post by billco518 on Mar 1, 2013 17:38:15 GMT -5
The front blade on my spring housing is broken at the forward screw hole. I have a replacement, but I think the old one broke because the forearm wood is slightly lower that the notch in the plastic fore-tip, and if the front mounting screw is tightened, there would be a bias on the part as it would be tightened on a slight step. I'm, not really sure why the blade protrudes forward of the fore-end wood, so I have two choices. I can file away the plastic notch until it is flush with the wood, or I can add a shim to bring the part level with the wood. Anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks,
Billco518
|
|
|
|
Post by littleguns on Mar 2, 2013 4:41:04 GMT -5
Without a doubt, try shimming it first. Shims can be removed; shaved plastic can't. I have used very thin wood shims on forearm metal before without a problem. The work didn't even show once the forearm went back onto the gun. I made the shims by making an extremely thin cut on a table saw. Plain old pine 2x4 donor wood will do. Drill them where screws go through to avoid splitting. (Or am I misreading your problem?)
|
|
|
|
Post by billco518 on Mar 2, 2013 12:22:34 GMT -5
Thanks for the advice, and you are correct in understanding the problem. This breakage must be a common occurrence, since I have seen other similar complaints on another forum(I can't remember where).
Do you know what the function of the metal blade that projects from the front of the spring housing is? The forearm seems to go on nicely even though that blade is broken off on the original. By the way, I haven't looked at this gun for well over 20 years, and I had the broken blade stored in the ammo holes in the stock. Along with it is a heavily blued washer that I cant find a home for. Is it possible that the washer was used under the front screw to raise the front of the spring housing to clear the notch in the plastic fore-tip?
|
|
