thehunteriam
Will probably stay
My Writings : http://www.wideopenspaces.com/author/eric-nestor/
Posts: 84
|
Post by thehunteriam on Sept 3, 2013 21:43:08 GMT -5
I have the stock and forearm all stripped down and ready for sanding. Any good tips on refinishing? What did you use? My last squirrel hunt chipped old finish away and now I need to redo, and maybe throw in a trigger job too.
|
|
thehunteriam
Will probably stay
My Writings : http://www.wideopenspaces.com/author/eric-nestor/
Posts: 84
|
Post by thehunteriam on Sept 3, 2013 21:48:15 GMT -5
Another quick question, where is the instructions for a trigger job on the site? I had printed them out from the other site before the new forum but have lost them in a move...
|
|
thehunteriam
Will probably stay
My Writings : http://www.wideopenspaces.com/author/eric-nestor/
Posts: 84
|
Post by thehunteriam on Sept 4, 2013 17:22:49 GMT -5
Everything sanded. That ugly paint that the factory used sure hid the nice lines! It is going to take a dark walnut stain well. Off to Loews!
|
|
|
|
Post by littleguns on Sept 5, 2013 7:51:42 GMT -5
I have had good luck using Tru-Oil on stocks. I rub it on by hand (not using a cloth). It may take several coats to get the exact finish you want, from matte to high-gloss. It won't chip or scratch the way varnish does, and it can be easily touched up.
|
|
|
|
Post by odell23 on Sept 5, 2013 10:03:30 GMT -5
Double boiled linseed oil is a favorite of mine. Makes walnut look incredible.
|
|
thehunteriam
Will probably stay
My Writings : http://www.wideopenspaces.com/author/eric-nestor/
Posts: 84
|
Post by thehunteriam on Sept 5, 2013 18:23:39 GMT -5
The stain took well in one application, and I am quite happy with the patterns. I did pick up some Min-wax polyurethane, tomorrow it will get a coat, dry, light steel wool and one more application. Should hold up very well. I did you Linspeed before, and liked it, but canot find it close so went with Min-wax.
|
|
|
|
Post by glocknutt on Sept 8, 2013 22:44:04 GMT -5
I have to admit that linseed oil is a favorite of mine too.
|
|
thehunteriam
Will probably stay
My Writings : http://www.wideopenspaces.com/author/eric-nestor/
Posts: 84
|
Post by thehunteriam on Sept 9, 2013 11:15:36 GMT -5
The 24 looks so good I don't want to use it now hah! Now eyeing my wife's Stevens 94 20 gauge and my Savage 24c that has some stock finish damage...now just have to find the time...
|
|
|
|
Post by jojonabs on Sept 14, 2013 13:10:58 GMT -5
I used several coats of tru oil and it turned out beautiful.
|
|
|
|
Post by vancmike on Sept 14, 2013 13:48:26 GMT -5
I think I mentioned this before, but a couple of years after I bought my new Mdl 24 (in 1958!), I shaved off the pistol grip, slimmed the clubby forearm and finished the wood with double-boiled linseed. It still looks good, some 52+ (egads!) 40+ years later.
Have to admit that linseed doesn't work as well on all woods. My Mdl 24 has some very nice walnut, for an even-then cheap gun. I've tried it on not-so nice walnut, mystery wood and so on. It did work on a Remington birch (I think) stock, but I had to do some creative staining first.
And Tru-oil and various Minwax products work well too.
|
|
|
|
Post by Andy m on Sept 21, 2013 1:02:32 GMT -5
Another vote for the Tru oil , Easy to use (Even for a sausage fingered luxor like me!) End results are stunning .
All the best fellas .
Andy .
|
|
thehunteriam
Will probably stay
My Writings : http://www.wideopenspaces.com/author/eric-nestor/
Posts: 84
|
Post by thehunteriam on Sept 21, 2013 9:34:54 GMT -5
I ended up doing a refinishing job on both 24's that had that crappy baby poop brown/yellow factory paint that was chipping. They had great grain underneath and came out awesome. They even seem to handle better too and any touch ups in the future will be a breeze. Almost too purdy to use, but I will anyway!
|
|
