nickb
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Posts: 3 
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Post by nickb on Oct 1, 2013 21:04:32 GMT -5
Great info in these forums. I was able to identify my old gun as an L. My Dad gave it to me when I was a kid. I could hit anything with the .22. Shot lots of rabbits and squirrels with it, both 22 and 410. Hasn't been shot for many years. I figure its time to pass it down to my nephew. When I was a kid, I know I used to shoot .22 long rifles through it, didn't know any better. I remember the brass casings would always crack. The top of the .22 barrel says "22 WIN. MAGNUM R.F. ONLY". I've been trying to figure out how this translates into modern day ammo. Can someone tell me what .22's will work safely in this gun? Also, some years ago I decided to clean up the wood stocks. I made it as far as stripping, repairing and sanding sown the wood. It is in great condition now, just needs staining. Are there specific stain/varnishes that work better for guns, or is it ok to just use regular wood working stains? I'm looking forward to passing on this great gun to my nephew, keeping it in the family, and hoping he can get as much enjoyment out of it as I did. Thanks for any info.
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Post by littleguns on Oct 2, 2013 7:37:45 GMT -5
I'd be leery about shooting .22 LR in a gun chambered for magnum, whether or not it technically fires. You can find the mag ammo you need at gunshows and maybe gunshops or sporting-goods stores, but anything starting with ".22" is pretty scarce these days. As for wood stain, I always just use stain for furniture, etc. One thing to be careful about is stains that say "stain and seal" on the can (e.g., Minwax). Once applied, it's hard to alter the color without restripping because of the sealing function of such stains. Use a stain that is ONLY a stain so you can put it on lightly, then darken until you get it the way you want it. As for a final finish, I'm a big fan of Tru-Oil out of a bottle, not a spray can, because it gives you great control -- you can apply coat after coat until you get exactly the finish you want, from flat to high gloss. I rub it on with my bare palm and let it dry well between coats. Others may have different ideas.
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Post by captcapsize on Oct 2, 2013 7:50:42 GMT -5
If you shoot a 22 lr in a magnum chamber expect a faceful of hot gases and burnt powder. I have found a safe way to do it if you are willing do a lot of work. This is for informational purposes only, I do not suggest you try this, you have been warned. A 22 lr will fit inside a 22 magnum case (must be CCI case) so if one was to cut the rim off with a dremel cutoff wheel and insert it into the magnum chamber backwards the lr will chamber and fire. The magnum case can be removed with a wire brush on a cleaning rod. I have not tested this for accuracy.
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nickb
Rank Stranger
Posts: 3
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Post by nickb on Oct 2, 2013 11:50:20 GMT -5
Thanks for the replies. No, I dont plan to shoot anything other than what it is chambered for. Especially since I am passing it down to my young nephew, I want him to be safe as well as take care of the gun. But, as a kid, because I was dumb, I did put alot of long rifles and shorts through it accurately (squirrel and rabbit accurate) with no obvious problems other than the brass from the shells splitting. But, no, now that I know better I want to pass it on with the correct ammo. So, is the correct ammo simply referred to as .22 mag?
Also, after reading on here, I see that the barrel selector on these guns has been either a selector on the right hand side, or the switch on the hammer. Mine has the switch on the hammer. But, it also has a round/flat knob on the right side that slides up and down. I always thought this must be a safety that didn't work. Why would this series L gun have that selector switch that doesn't do anything?
Thanks again.
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Post by vancmike on Oct 2, 2013 12:21:41 GMT -5
In its prior life, someone changed the original non-selector hammer to a selector type....possibly after the original side selector broke. I have a selector hammer somewhere in my "inventory" just in case the same thing happens to mine (it's about 30 years now; I should look for it and sell it to someone on this forum, shouldn't I?)
In our part of the country (the upper left-hand corner of your 48-state US map) 22 Mag has inexplicably been easy to find. Hope it's the same for you.
As littleguns says, Tru Oil works fine. I've mentioned this before, but I refinished my vintage-'58 in double-boiled linseed. Same method as Tru Oil: rub it in, wait, rub in more, wait, rub in more. Doesn't work on mystery wood, but makes good walnut look great.
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Post by tom on Oct 2, 2013 12:37:37 GMT -5
i have a 410 22 over and under model 24 my dad bouth this gun before i was born and now i,m 51 years old i wood like to find out some info about this gun. Its was made in chicopee falls mass. on the barrow its has the letters c e j and something that lookes like the number 1. Can anybody give me some info on this thanks tom
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nickb
Rank Stranger
Posts: 3
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Post by nickb on Oct 2, 2013 21:16:19 GMT -5
Tom - I had the same situation, wanting to learn more about my gun. On the main page here, follow the link for the FAQ and it will give you some good info on how to tell what year yours was made and lots of other info too.
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