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Post by jimbob on Mar 16, 2014 15:53:32 GMT -5
Questions and problems -
My 24 (22long rifle over 20 ga., series S) has a plastic forearm pivot plate, the upper ends of which look a bit compressed and battered. The brooming out of this piece makes me wonder if the frame is springing back from flexing in recoil. I can live with the appearance; I can also replace it with the corresponding colour case-hardened steel part from an old model 94 (.410) which is prettier and seems to fit and work ok, or I can order an aluminum piece from Numrich, who list a lot of plates for different Savage models (which I suspect use plates of the same design and dimensions).
So, are these things interchangeable, and should I worry about springiness in the frame?
The gun's had no more than a couple of boxes of shotgun shells through it, and function and accuracy are fine. (We won't talk about the trigger pull. So far I can manage it with one finger.)
Ideas?
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Post by vancmike on Mar 17, 2014 15:19:34 GMT -5
I'm ignorant about plastic pivot plates, but I'll give it a shot anyway: I doubt the frame is "springing back;" that frame can handle a lot more pressures than a 20-gauge.
I'd replace it with steel, if that's an option.
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Post by jimbob on Mar 18, 2014 11:08:03 GMT -5
Thanks for the advice.
For what it's worth, the plastic appears to be the same black, springy, slippery stuff the trigger guard and release button for the locking bolt are made of. The plate doesn't have to do much, so the non rusting, self-lubricating nature of Tupperware seems appropriate to the task. At least the butt stock and forearm aren't made of the stuff.
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Post by littleguns on Mar 23, 2014 15:32:50 GMT -5
I've used the plastic, case-hardened and nickel plates interchangeably. I've found that some 24s are just tighter than others, regardless of pivot plate.
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