jimmy
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Posts: 9
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Post by jimmy on Feb 27, 2016 16:25:26 GMT -5
I am new to this forum and new owner of a model 24. My gun is a .22 mag/410 in pretty good shape however it is in need of a selector assembly. The selector button is present and functional however the remainder of the assembly is missing. The selector button does NOT have the center screw. I would like to repair the current selector assembly in order to maintain the original design of the gun.
Questions: - According to Numrich parts description, this appears to be the later style selector button. Is this correct? - If this is the later style, again from the Numrich info, it appears I need the corresponding selector assembly, plunger spring and plunger. Can't quite wrap my head around how the parts are assembled. Does this sound correct for required parts? - After basic disassembly of the gun it is not intuitive to me as to what further disassembly is required to install the new parts. Can somebody walk me through the installation process?
My thanks in advance for any help that can be provided!!!
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Post by gman on Feb 28, 2016 12:41:47 GMT -5
That does sound like the right parts. Was it a kit? They had replacement kits at Numrich for the side selectors at one point in time. Look at the other calibers I would think if you find a kit that is for a different caliber it should show all the parts you need.
I would like to recommend that you also get a set of fireing pins and springs as those are getting harder to find.
Also maybe get the parts for the new style hammer selector as the side selectors had issues and Savage did make a kit replacement for them (basically its a new hammer with the the selector built-in).
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Post by littleguns on Feb 28, 2016 16:37:11 GMT -5
I always get confused when it comes to new- vs. old-style selectors (clip-on or screw). So I thought, heck, I'll just look at the Stevens .22/.410s vs. the Savage 24s, 24Bs, etc.. to figure out which ones used the clip-on button vs. the screw-fastened type. I looked at seven or eight receivers, and there was no obvious rhyme or reason. I don't know if over the decades the buttons on some have been replaced or what, but I'm finding both types of button on the old Tenite guns as well as on the post-1950 24s. I even have one held on with a tiny hex-head screw (which I'll mention in another post soon). I think (but not sure) that either selector type will fit the .22-.410 and the 24, as long as it matches the button type. In comparing selectors, I recall they're pretty much the same except for button attaching. (I had no success in digging out the two kinds from my parts drawers at the moment.) Bottom line: I'm not much use in helping figure out which selector you need. Sorry.
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Post by neilrr on Feb 28, 2016 17:32:29 GMT -5
Per the Stevens/Savage schematic for the Model 24, 22 Mag/410:
1. The "old style" selector button (with a hole) part 24-213, and has the following associated parts: selector button screw part 24-216, the selector part 24-741, the selector button plunger part 24-214, and the selector button plunger spring part 24-216.
2. The "new style" selector button that is solid, no screw, is part 24A-213 and has the following associated parts: selector part 24A-741, selector button plunger part 24A-214, and the selector button plunger spring part 24-216 (same as "old style").
In one of my previous posts entitled: "Need help with locking bolt" is a detailed disassembly/reassembly write-up for the Stevens Model 24 22/410.
Hope this helps. If you need further information please feel free to ask.
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jimmy
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Posts: 9
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Post by jimmy on Mar 1, 2016 14:05:05 GMT -5
Gentlemen, thanks for all your responses.
gman- I did not purchase a button kit since they were sold out on Numrich. Thanks for the heads up on firing pins.
littleguns- You bring up a good thought. Maybe my button is not original yo my gun?
neilrr- Thanks for the clarification and link to disassembly. I bought a new style selector arm on eBay since Numrich was out of stock. It looks like the correct one. Do you know how the new style button comes out of the case? Is their an internal release mechanism?
Good to see the Model 24 tradition is in good hands!!!
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Post by neilrr on Mar 6, 2016 16:38:08 GMT -5
jimmy,
Sorry for not getting back to you earlier, but I have been very busy.
The new type selector button is held in place by the spring loaded selector button plunger. The button is removed by simply pulling it straight out, but make sure you do not launch the plunger and spring when the button is removed. To replace the button you simply put the spring and plunger in place, depress them with a long thin screwdriver and insert the button through the hole in the receiver. I had noticed that the button has a tendency to scratch the side of the receiver so I placed a very thing plastic washer between it and the receiver - works great and no scratches.
Hope this helps. Good luck and have fun shooting your 24.
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jimmy
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Posts: 9
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Post by jimmy on Mar 10, 2016 15:30:21 GMT -5
neilrr
Thanks for the great information. I read your disassembly guide. Well done and very helpful.
Looks like the case needs to be pretty much disassembled for installation of the new selector.
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Post by neilrr on Mar 13, 2016 9:20:23 GMT -5
jimmy,
My preference on purchasing a used gun is to disassemble it completely to verify that all of the components are in good shape and that there is no old oil, dirt, etc. that will interfere with it functioning reliably. You are correct in that it will be much easier to disassemble the gun to install the new selector and its associated parts. Good luck and if I can be of any further help please advise.
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jimmy
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Posts: 9
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Post by jimmy on Mar 14, 2016 9:56:08 GMT -5
neillr, Good advice. Disassembled the receiver and cleaned it up. Looks pretty good. Will replace firing pins while I have it apart.
A few more questions: - I believe there should be a washer between main spring plunger seat & plunger spring. Please confirm this is the proper location for the washer. My gun does not have this washer. - I like your idea of pre-loading the mainspring for assembly / disassembly. I can see that fighting that spring would be interesting. For spring pre-loading, do you still recommend drilling the plunger seat & plunger as outlined in your procedure or have you come up with any other ideas? - I have identified the following parts suppliers: Popperts, Outback Gun Parts and Numrich. Do you have any additional suggestions?
Thanks again!
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Post by neilrr on Mar 14, 2016 12:17:10 GMT -5
jimmy,
- As to the need for the main spring washer, when I reassembled my 22/410 I did not install a main spring washer. My gun did not come with one and it works fine without it.
- Pre-loading the main spring assembly as I described in the disassembly/reassembly write up is the easiest way to remove/install this assembly if you do not have a third hand to help in this process. For the initial assembly, after drilling the hole through both the main spring plunger shaft and main spring plunger, a flat head screw driver that has been notched in a "U" shape can be used to allow you to retain the compressed main spring and main spring plunger seat on the main spring plunger shaft while you insert the retaining pin. The main spring plunger is retained in a vise during this assembly process. Others have notched the receiver where the main spring plunger is retained to ease installation. However, as I was taught you never modify the receiver if you do not absolutely need to since it is the legal portion of the gun that contains the gun's ID - serial number.
- Jack First is another potential part supplier as well as E-bay.
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jimmy
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Posts: 9
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Post by jimmy on Mar 17, 2016 13:27:54 GMT -5
neilrr
I drilled the mainspring plunger and seat. Went perfect and looking forward to reassembly!
Thought I would re-paint the trigger guard while I have it apart. It is pretty much void of the original black finish. Is a regular black acrylic spray paint acceptable or do you recommend something different?
Thanks
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Post by neilrr on Mar 17, 2016 14:55:52 GMT -5
jimmy,
The trigger guard should be aluminum, not metal. If you use a spray paint it will eventually chip off and spray painting does not always give a nice smooth surface. A better method that is more permanent is to use Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black metal finish. This paste will turn the aluminum trigger guard black with a smooth surface that will not chip with wear.
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jimmy
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Posts: 9
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Post by jimmy on Mar 17, 2016 22:34:37 GMT -5
neilrr
More great information. I will check it out, Thanks!
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jimmy
Rank Stranger
Posts: 9
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Post by jimmy on Mar 23, 2016 17:05:40 GMT -5
neilrr I finished the trigger guard with the Birchwood Casey aluminum black. First removed oxidation with fine emery cloth and steel wool. Cleaned with denatured alcohol and applied solution. Followed up a little oil and it looks great!
Reassembled the action with the aid of your instructions and it went great. Reassembly of the mainspring and plunger was particularly painless wit your method of compressing the spring.
Everything appears to function properly including the selector. Can't wait to shoot it. Thanks for your help!!!
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Post by neilrr on Mar 23, 2016 22:40:30 GMT -5
jimmy,
Happy to hear that the reassembly was successful when following my reassembly write-up and that the other advise was also helpful. Have fun and good luck shooting your 24.
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