|
|
Post by John from Wa on Feb 27, 2014 16:46:57 GMT -5
I have a 22 lr over 20ga. Its a 24s-e.
First off, the 22 is dead on every time. No issues there. My concern is the 20 ga. It shoots fairly low with regular target or quail loads. The pattern seems to be about 7 inches low at 15 yards. And slugs shoot about 7-8 inches low at 15 yards.
It has the attached barrels. If i look past the rear sight and use the front as a bead would that help? Is there a trick?
John
|
|
|
|
Post by loganboone on Feb 27, 2014 20:05:54 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by mstreman on Mar 13, 2014 7:36:02 GMT -5
It is called a "barrel regulation" problem if I recall , and Logan has a workable solution. Just throwing out some ideas here.
1) The old fashion was was adjusting the rear sight elevation ramp--which is a hassle when your hands are numb cold out in the woods pre-dawn. You need to mark the ramp notches and remember which is which. I used to know what ramp settings I needed for far range deer slugs vs mid range squirrels Number 4 shot and wrote them on an index card taped to my stock-- but now anything over 15 yards is "fuzzy" and the need rendered moot.
2)Before going to deep in modifications you might want to check registration with a laser boresight on both barrels and see if it is a drastic barrel regulation issue (which is a built in at the factory problem" which can't be easily fixed on the welded barrels. I had one of the old "banded/separate" barrel .30-30s which no amount of effort and shimming could get the barrels aligned. IF they boresight together it can include an ammo choice/matching issue, which would take tweaking a hand load to close the gap.
3) Sight picture. Instead of placing the target on top of the sight post you might be able to compensate by placing the post center of mass or higher--easier on a deer harder on a flying bird or running rabbit.
4) There are some pricy vintage Creedmore/Williams/Lyman-type sights with thumb wheels which are easier to spin up and have a greater range of "trajectory/range" options. Plus there are/were some dual blade flip rear sights which may or may not need a gunsmith to cut a dovetail notch.I presume you have the standard welded pinch base since it is the .22
|
|
|
|
Post by cas on Mar 13, 2014 8:37:50 GMT -5
It's called barrel regulation, and there isn't any on the Savage 24.  They were $75-$150 guns. Point and shoot. Or like you said, ignore the rear sight, look over it and use the front sight as a bead. |
|
|
|
Post by cw on Mar 13, 2014 12:41:32 GMT -5
It's called barrel regulation, and there isn't any on the Savage 24. They were $75-$150 guns. Point and shoot. Or like you said, ignore the rear sight, look over it and use the front sight as a bead. Your not alone in this delima. The connected barrels might look better and be more desireable but leave little ability to regulate POI. My 24DL 22M/20ga is similar. Maggie is dead on at. 50 yards 20g slug impacts two feet right and about 6" high. Connected barrel on DL guns. My 22/410 is a early gun also with soldered barrels. But I'm much luckier. (Is that a word?) the 22 LR is dead on at 50 yards and the 410 is lo and right but only about 2"x2". So that's a easy one. I just yesterday acquired a 24V 30/30 over 20 ga. It's barrels are speedster so I have the ability to regulate with wedging and front screw tension. I have t shot it yet so with luck it's done for me. I have looked at the option of a close range site mounted at a angle aside the scope. Using a small reflex site. It's a possibility Second is to have a second dovetail cut and a second folding side installed. Then just flip one down and other up for each barrel. Logan also has a way to utalize your sites as they are. This only really works well if no or little Windage error is found. CW |
|
They were $75-$150 guns. 
