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Post by sentry44 on Oct 18, 2020 14:05:12 GMT -5
That's dedinitely the case. Just more so than I would have though, given the case heads are only a little different.
I guess at this point it's reallg just a matter of whether anyone has rigged a work around...maybe some sort of small extension piece that the firing pin coild strike and it would emgage the case rim??
Hoping for ideas.
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Post by sentry44 on Oct 17, 2020 17:28:10 GMT -5
Wow...i just noticed my status is "rank stranger"...on this "new" forum I joined in 2012.
I remember when CAS still had it on the old platform too!
And I'm a rank stranger.
😔 How soon we are forgotten...
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Post by sentry44 on Oct 17, 2020 17:26:05 GMT -5
Hi gents, it has been a LONG time since Ive been on here. A while back I acquired a .22wmr/410 barrel off eBay in fanatastic condition. I knew it was from the same era as my .22lr/20 J-DL, so I knew it would fit.
And it does, perfectly. The problem is the firing pin strikes close to the center of the .22 wmr case, not near the edge. I guess Im guilty of assuming that because the radius of the Magnum isn't THAT much bigger than the long rifle, that it would strike and fire. Not so much.
The shotgun fires fine.
Has anyone else encountered this? Are the firing pins on .22 mag frames really aligned differently than on long rifle guns???
More importantly, does anyone have a simple idea for overcoming it? I'd love to be able to shoot 4 different rounds from one gun...
Chris
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Post by sentry44 on Feb 11, 2020 5:42:51 GMT -5
So...tiny dovetail? Anybody dealt with this? Widened it to standard so you could use somwthing like the Marbles semi-buckhorn I have on my other barrel set? Or, are there tiny dovetail sight options?
Sentry
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Post by sentry44 on Feb 3, 2020 14:58:56 GMT -5
Wow, I see my status is "rank stranger," and that I have no post history? That hurts.
Did CAS purge everything in a migration?
Kids...jobs changes...the world forgets you. *s*
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Post by sentry44 on Feb 3, 2020 14:56:37 GMT -5
Hi gents,
Its been s loooooong since I posted on here. Like...5 years, Im guessing. Anyhow, i just acquired another barrel for my J-DL (black). Its 22wmr/410, whi I havent owned before. The barrel (M code) fits my W code action perfectly, but there's one thing sad, in that instead of a stsndard dovetail rear sight, the sight it wears is attached by the tinyest little groove.
As usual imm not happy with how low the sight sits, so i want it higher. But I want an express mount sight, not a groove top peep (I have had RE-24's), and my preference is to not put a scope on this one.
Any options? Has anyone ever widened that tiny groove? Or are there other (higher profile) choices which fit it?
Thx and rgds,
Sentry
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Post by sentry44 on Apr 19, 2015 8:23:58 GMT -5
Thanks Neil,
I posted last night right after I finished the assembly. I won't get to shoot for a few days, but when I do I'll report back. The lockup already "feels" tighter, so that's obviously a good sign.
-Sentry44
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Post by sentry44 on Apr 19, 2015 0:05:20 GMT -5
Neilrr,
Well I did it. I don't own a drill press, so your very nifty idea of drilling a hole for a slave pin to hold the main spring assembly compressed while driving in the hammer pin, was not an option for me.
And WOW would that have been nice. Simply put, getting that sucker back in place with only one set of hands and a flat head screwdriver was an exercise in patience.
He's a great old gun and I'm afraid I may have muttered some things in frustration I'll need to apologize for. Spring turkey season begins in 10 days and I don't want him all sore at me... *s*
In any event, the new locking bolt assembly did the trick. No more shifting to the right. The old one was worn on that side down to a little indent, and that was what was allowing the free movement. Locks up like my LC Smith now!
Thanks again for taking the time to explain.
Damn I need a drill press...
- Sentry44
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Post by sentry44 on Apr 17, 2015 0:26:42 GMT -5
Thank you VERY much for posting that Neilrr!!
I will report back after I have done the repair.
- Sentry44
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Post by sentry44 on Apr 16, 2015 8:42:52 GMT -5
Thanks for all that Neilrr...
I want to do the repair myself. You only learn by doing.
Do I begin by simply driving out the two pins? Or should I release the pressure by taking the slipping the plungers out sideways?
- Sentry44
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Post by sentry44 on Apr 15, 2015 23:49:54 GMT -5
Ok, so I moved the plunger around easily enough. That had no effect on the problem.
Advice on ripping the locking bolt assembly out?
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Post by sentry44 on Apr 15, 2015 10:18:07 GMT -5
Thanks BK, I think Neilrr is onto my issues. For one thing, by his description my plunger is upside down. (Isn't there a little blue pill for that? Har, har...)
For another thing, I think he might be right about there not being enough meat left on the part of the locking bolt that catches the barrel. I guess adjusting the plunger first is worth the try.
Do you think I can just work it around with a flathead screwdriver? Or do I have to actually remove it to spin it right side up?
- Sentry44
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Post by sentry44 on Apr 15, 2015 9:12:49 GMT -5
Hi Neilrr,
As to your first point, from what you're describing the plunger should be arcing like a rainbow. It isn't...it's the reverse, like an upside down rainbow. But it is perfectly inverted, not kicked out to the side. Do you think this is the issue? Is there a trick to turning the plunger?
As to your second point, I HAVE experienced the barrel opening when firing a 3 inch Brenneke slug. Not for typical 2 3/4 loads, but yes, it has opened when using a 3 inch slug. Which is why I need to address this. I actually have already acquired a spare locking bolt assembly...but if there is a trick you can give me which would work and save me swapping the locking assemblys just yet, I'd love to hear it.
I should add...THANK YOU for replying!
- Sentry44
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Post by sentry44 on Apr 14, 2015 20:38:44 GMT -5
Alright guys...could really use some good thoughts here.
One of my J-DL's is freakishly accurate, which is probably why it was shot a whole lot both before I owned, and since. But all that shooting has it locking up just a hair too loose for my liking...not the solid snap that I get from my other prettier (and far less accurate) 24's.
I started with replacing the aging and bent extractor hook...clearly the gun has been opened with the one-handed fling too many times. So now my attention turns to the locking bolt assembly. The whole assembly is sort of shifted to the right, such that when you move the lever slowly to the right it straightens out as you go, and as the catch piece moves down. But when you let go of the lever and the catch piec rises, it moves off to the right as it does.
Do you think this is due to the need to replace:
(A) the locking bolt plunger (B) the locking bolt plunger spring (C) the entire locking bolt assembly
My guess is the only need for the last would be if you think the metal's actually been worn away over time.
Frankly, I'd rather not rip the whole thing down only to see the assembly is fine, when all I needed to do was on of the others.
OR....doesn't anyone think there's ANOTHER reason entirely for why the gun doesn't lock with a healthy (slightly tighter) snap?
Thanks for ANY and ALL thought.
*ahem* "Paging Big Kelly. Big Kelly you're needed at the counter."
- Sentry44
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Post by sentry44 on Mar 16, 2015 8:56:37 GMT -5
SOLD.
Big thanx to glocknutt! Been needin' this for a while.
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