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Post by neilrr on Aug 20, 2015 12:12:45 GMT -5
I recently came across the following website, that offers a 22 LR reloading kit. That is right, a commercially available 22 LR reloading kit for the average hand loader. After watching the various videos on the site I am some what interested to try it for use with my .22/410, especially with the price and scarcity of 22 LR ammo. The kit contains a combination bullet mold/crimper, combination case scraper/primer tamper, plastic funnel, double ended powder measure, glass eye dropper for acetone dispensing, and detailed instructions. The kit is only good for reloading 22 LR and will not work for 22 S or 22. The price for the kit is $75 and $20 for the repriming compound which consists of several inert chemicals until you mix them together to form the primer compound. Add another $60 and you can purchase a die and shell holder for resizing the used casings. I really do not think you will need this last item. You then need to supply the powder and lead for the bullets. The amount of priming compound is estimated to be good for about 2,000 rounds. The estimated cost is to produce 50 rounds is less than $1.00. My question is has anyone purchased one of these reloading kit and if so what has your experience been?
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Post by neilrr on Jul 20, 2015 8:49:08 GMT -5
wm - the correct method to determine the chamber size is to do a casting and then measure the size of the plug produced. It is not a very complicated process and you could purchase the materials and do it yourself or if you are interested to have your combo checked out by a qualified gunsmith I will see if I can find you a fellow gunsmith in Scottsdale, AZ area who knows about 24's. Please advise.
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Post by neilrr on Jul 18, 2015 17:08:06 GMT -5
A mis-mark on the barrel is very unusual. It is possible that the original 22LR chamber was reamed out to fit a 22 WMR and a new 22 WMR extractor fitted also. If a gunsmith did this work then the barrel would be remarked 22 WMR. If the re-chambering was done by a past owner then the barrel would probably not have been remarked. I would have a qualified gunsmith give this gun the once over to verify the chamber size and do a test firing to ensure the gun is safe, which in my opinion it should be. Better safe than sorry.
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Post by neilrr on Jul 18, 2015 17:00:31 GMT -5
wsp - I responded to this issue on your original earlier posts about this issue that we were sending replies back and forth on. Hope it is helpful.
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Post by neilrr on Jul 18, 2015 16:49:54 GMT -5
wm, the 22LR or 22 WMR rim should sit on the cutout edge of the extractor and only become fully seated within the chamber when the barrel is locked up and the extractor is fully seated within the cutout on the barrel. The cut out surface of the extractor will remain under the 22LR or 22WMR rim until the barrel is opened, at that time the extractor will extract the round by the rim.
A 22WMR will not fit in a chamber that is sized for a 22LR. There are several model rifles whose chambers are sized to accommodate either 22LR, 22, and 22S, but will not fit 22 WMR. Likewise, a 22 WRM chamber is only good for a 22 WRM and will not fit a 22LR, 22, 22S properly.
Fore your information there is a 22WMR over 410 version of the 24J-DL.
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Post by neilrr on Jul 18, 2015 16:24:23 GMT -5
An extractor may not extract, ride over the rim of the round for several reasons;
1. If the chamber for the 22LR is very tight with an unfired round it will be tighter for a fired round who case is expanded onto the walls of the chamber. Is the unfired round easy to remove or is it tight in the chamber? If the unfired round is tight in the chamber than you need to clean and polish the chamber until the unfired round is easy to remove. You then need to check the chamber after a fired round and possibly repeat the cleaning and polishing process to ensure a fired round will extract.
2. If the chamber is not tight another reason the extractor will not extract is that engagement angle on the 22LR rim is negative and not positive. Physically the extractor will look ok, but will not have a positive engagement angle. If the engagement angle is negative you need to refit to obtain appositive engagement angle with the extractor fitted over the rim of the round.
Just a note on wording in case we are not talking about the same issue; the extractor on the 22LR/410 extracts only, it does not eject. You must manually remove the extracted unfired or fired case for both the 22LR or 410 round from their respective chambers.
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Post by neilrr on Jul 18, 2015 6:54:23 GMT -5
Just picked this up, .22 LR and.410......and I need a manual. Any ideas where I can get one? Also, any tips, tricks or things I should know about this piece? Appears to not have a safety? it has the hammer swich d=for barrels..i can not notice a hlf cock etc? Any thoughts wiuld be appreciated. Welcome to the forum. The hammer is a rebounding type, there is no half cock position, only a hammer full cock and rebound position. There is no manual safety. After discharging a round the hammer springs back part way to its rebound position a short distance away from the firing pins. When the hammer is in this rebound position there is no forward spring tension on the hammer, but an actual rearward tension to keep the hammer in its rebound position, away from the firing pins. The hammer will remain in the rebound position until the hammer is pulled back to its full cock position. As you stated the hammer has a selector to choose which barrel you want to discharge and should only discharge one barrel at a time. There are a lot of posts throughout this forum on tips and tricks for how to repair various issues, where to find parts, etc. There is a post entitled "Need help with locking block" which is presently at the bottom of the first page of the forum posts which gives details on how to disassemble and reassemble the early model .22LR/410 which is applicable to this model also. Schematics specific to your model 24 are available from various parts suppliers like Brownell. Good luck and if you need further help just post a question and someone will respond.
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Post by neilrr on Jul 1, 2015 4:46:00 GMT -5
Welcome to the forum. The firing pin spring for the shotgun and the rim fire are the same. As you state they are a soft spring, 3 coils long with open ends. People have successfully made them from a pen or a Bic lighter spring. The last time I looked Brownell had them for sale, but try making them first as it will be much cheaper than buying and paying the shipping costs to Sweden. Good luck and have a great time shooting.
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Post by neilrr on Jun 10, 2015 6:42:59 GMT -5
My father gave me a Boker electrician's knife over 50 years ago that it is still my favorite knife. The knife has a single blade that is razor sharp and a combination screw drive and wire scrapper blade.
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Post by neilrr on Jun 10, 2015 6:25:45 GMT -5
As to the extractor issue, you could have two problems that are contributing to the extraction issue. The following assumes that you have thoroughly cleaned the 30-30 chamber removing all residue from previous use.
1. Your chamber's surface may not be smooth. Rough chamber walls allow the expanded fired case to have small imperfections to expand into making extraction hard or even difficult enough that the extractor cannot extract the spent cartridge case.
2. The extractor lever's hook or "little side arm" that engages the extractor should have a positive angle of engagement per a review of the 30-30 schematic. If the lever's hook is worn or rounded and its engagement angle to the extractor has become negative then the lever's hook will slip off of the extractor when the action is opened as you have stated in your post.
The two issues could be working individually or together to prevent the fired case from being extracted. The repair would be to smooth the rough chamber and/or recut the lever's hook to be positive. If you need a procedure to do either please advise.
Good luck.
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Post by neilrr on May 29, 2015 9:59:05 GMT -5
bigkelly, thanks for the quick response. Had the same problem on the 22/410 I had purchased. Did a similar fix and it has held up very well. Off to a major gun show this weekend in PA. Will see what they have and what I can afford. The wife is also going since she is as big a gun nut as I am. So it maybe a toss up as to who buys what with the limited funds. Good luck on selling you 24 on gunbroker and have fun with your new project.
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Post by neilrr on May 29, 2015 5:54:10 GMT -5
bigkelly - very nice. Sorry to see that you are selling it, but I do understand. I did look at your posting on gunbroker and noticed that you stated that the buttstock had the typical side cracks. How bad are they? Do you think they are repairable?
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Post by neilrr on May 29, 2015 5:40:19 GMT -5
I had the same problem when I ordered the 22 rifle firing pin for by 22/410. The rifle firing pin that Numrich sent were beveled on the top and bottom that gave a final firing pin tip shape of: - . The rifle firing pin should be beveled on the sides to give a final firing pin tip shape of: |. Note, that the rifle firing pin is the same as the shotgun firing, except that the rifle firing pin is beveled on the sides to give the proper shape for a rim fired cartridge firing pin. Numrich sent me a replacement shotgun firing pin at no cost and I beveled the sides to make a rifle firing pin - works great.
As to the rifle firing pin spring, it is the same spring as the shotgun firing pin spring. They are interchangeable. Someone on this forum used a spring from a pen to make a new firing pin spring. The spring is very small and only 3-4 coils. The spring is used to ensure that the rifle firing pin is retracted out of the way to enable closing of the barrel.
Hope this helps.
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Post by neilrr on May 25, 2015 17:00:25 GMT -5
carpenter - sorry for not getting back to you sooner, but I have been really busy with house renovations and other work. Hope this write-up is helpful.
COMMENTS AND/OR CORRECTIONS TO THE FOLLOWING SET OF DISASSEMBLY/REASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS ARE WELCOMED. THIS VERSION IS DATED 05/25/2015
SAVAGE (STEVENS) MODEL 22-410 COMBINATION GUN DISASSEMBLY/REASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
This is a disassembly/reassembly set of instructions for a Savage (Stevens) Model 22-410 gun. These instructions can be used as a general guide for other Savage (Stevens) Model 24 guns.
SAFETY NOTICE: prior to commencing the disassembly, open the barrel to ensure that both chambers of the gun are empty to allow for a safe disassembly.
As you disassemble the gun place the parts in an orderly fashion on a clean dry mat in front of you in the order in which the parts are removed, as this will aide you in the reassembly process and protect the parts from being lost or damaged.
Check your specific gun to see in which direction the retaining pins should be removed and then be consistent with their removal and reinstallation. For this disassembly/reassembly set of instructions the retaining pins were removed left to right and reinstalled right to left, unless otherwise noted.
The number within ( ) reference the Key# on the Savage Model 24 schematic found at the end this set of instructions. NOTE: I am having issues loading this schematic and would appreciate any help to resolve this issue.
DISASSEMBLY
Forend Wood Assembly Removal
Remove the Forend Wood Assembly by grasping the front of the Forend Wood (63) and pull downward.
Remove the Forend Head (62) by unscrewing the two Forend Head Screws (61). This model 24 did not have a Forend Screw (64).
Remove the Forend Spring Housing Assembly from the Forend Wood (63) by unscrewing the two Forend Spring Housing Screws (34). The Forend Spring Housing Assembly consists of the following components: Forend Spring (35), Forend Spring Spring (36), Forend Spring Spring Pin (37), Forend spring Housing (38), and Forend Spring Pin (39).
Barrel Removal
To open and then remove the Barrel (11) from the Receiver/Frame (68), press the Top Snap (44) to the right and pull downward on the Barrel.
Once the Barrel is open, pull backward on the Barrel to release the Barrel Bite from the Hinge Pin housed within the Receiver/Frame.
Front Sight, Rear Sight, and Rear Sight Step Removal
Using a non-marring punch remove the Rear Sight (1, 2, or 3) and Rear Sight Step (4 or 5) from left to right.
Unscrew the Front Sight Screw (6) to remove the Front Sight (7).
Rifle Extractor Removal
While depressing the Extractor (9), unscrew the Extractor Screw (8). Slowly release the Extractor and remove it from the Barrel. Using a tweezers or a long thin screw remove the Extractor Spring (10).
Shotgun Extractor Removal
While depressing the Extractor (12 or 13), using a non-marring punch, drive out the Extractor Stop Pin (14). Slowly release the Extractor and remove it from the Barrel. Using a tweezers pull the Extractor Stem (15) from the Barrel.
Using a non-marring punch, drive out the Extractor Lever Pin (16) and remove the Extractor Lever (17). Using a tweezers or a long thin screw remove the Extractor Lever Spring (18) and the Extractor Lever Spring Plunger (20).
Buttstock and Buttplate Removal
Remove the Buttplate (76) by unscrewing the two (2) Buttplate Screws (75).
Using a long large flat head screw driver unscrew the Stock Bolt. Remove the Stock Bolt (78) and Stock Bolt Washer (79).
The Buttstock (77) can be slid rearward off of the Top and Bottom Receiver/Frame Tangs.
Receiver/Frame Parts Removal
Remove the Top Snap Screw (46).
Using a flat head screw driver loosen and remove the Top Snap (44) by pulling it out of the Top Snap Sleeve.
Using a flat head screw driver loosen and remove the Top Snap Sleeve (45), Top Snap Plunger (42), and Top Snap Plunger Spring (43).
Using a thin punch, push the Selector Button Plunger () in to release and allow removal of the Selector Button (47 or 48). Using a tweezers you can remove the Selector Button Plunger. The Selector Button Plunger Spring (50) can be removed by using a tweezers or long thin screw. Remove the Selector (52 or 53). Note different versions of the Selector Button (51 or 67) have a Selector Button Screw (49) that must be unscrewed from the Selector prior to removing the Selector Button.
Using a non-marring punch, drive out the Hammer Pin (58) from right to left.
Using a non-marring punch, drive out the Locking Bolt Pin (66) from left to right.
Remove the Locking Bolt Plunger Assembly which consists of the Locking Bolt Plunger (41) and the Locking Bolt Spring (40) by pushing the front end of the Locking Bolt Plunger out of the Locking Bolt Assembly hole located on the lower right hand side of the Receiver/Frame.
With the Hammer in its full down position use a flat head screw driver to carefully push the Mainspring Plunger Seat (21) towards and out the left side of the Receiver/Frame. This will allow you to remove the Mainspring Plunger Seat, Mainspring Washer (20), Main Spring (23), and Mainspring Plunger (24).
Remove the Hammer by lifting it up and back out of the Receiver/Frame.
Remove the Locking Bolt Assembly by pulling it to the right and back out of the Receiver/Frame.
Remove the Trigger Guard (70) by unscrewing the Front Trigger Guard Screw (71) followed by the Rear Trigger Guard Screw (69).
Remove the Trigger Pin (72), left to right, followed by removing the Trigger (74) and Trigger Spring (73).
Unscrew the Rifle Firing Pin Screw (55) and remove the Rifle Firing Pin (54). The Rifle Firing Pin Spring (25) can be removed by using a tweezers or long thin screw.
Unscrew the Shotgun Firing Pin Screw (57) and remove the Shotgun Firing Pin (56). Note, there is no Shotgun Firing Pin Spring on this model 24, but later models do have a spring.
POST DISASSEMBLY CLEANING AND LUBRICATING
Once the gun is disassembled all metal and wooden components should be cleaned and protected.
Metal parts: clean with a solution of water and a mild detergent like Simple Green that works to dissolve and remove grease and oil. Thoroughly scrub all parts with a brass wire brush and/or a nylon brush depending on how dirty the parts are, and then dry with a clean rag. Use compressed air, if available, to ensure that no water remains on any part. Perform any repairs as required including the removal of rust, re-bluing, etc. Protect all metal parts with a lubricating preservative like Break Free CLP, following the products application instructions.
Wooden parts: all wood surfaces should be wiped clean with a slightly damp rag, dried with a clean rag, and then the parts should be air dry for 24 hours. Perform any repairs as required. Once all repairs are completed including any re-staining, a clear paste wax specific for preserving wood or Tung oil should be applied to all surfaces.
REASSEMBLY
Main Spring Plunger Seat, Main Spring, and Mainspring Plunger Assembly
The following assembly set of instructions assume that you have previously completed the modification to the Main Spring Plunger Seat (21) and Main Spring Plunger (24) to allow for the installation of a retaining pin as described below in section entitled: ADDITIONAL DISASSEMBLY/ASSEMBLY INFORMATION. If you have not performed this modification you will probably need help when reinstalling these components, two hands are just not enough.
Assemble the Main Spring Plunger Seat, Main Spring (23), and Main Spring Plunger as if they were to be installed within the combination gun.
Place the entire assembly in a vise and compress the Main Spring until the holes in the Main Spring Plunger Seat and Main Spring Plunger line up. This should occur when the end of the Main Spring Plunger is even with the rounded end of the Main Spring Plunger Seat. Insert an appropriate sized retaining pin through the holes in both the Main Spring Plunger Seat and Main Spring Plunger to secure the assembly.
Receiver/Frame Parts Installation
Install the Shotgun Firing Pin (56, hemispherical head), lower firing pin hole, with the flat side facing the Shotgun Firing Pin Screw (57). Screw in the Shotgun Firing Pin Screw until it is tight against the Shotgun Firing Pin. The Shotgun firing Pin should not move. Back out the Shotgun Firing Pin Screw ¼ turn to allow the Shotgun Firing Pin to move in/out freely, but still be retained within the Receiver/Frame. Note, there is no Shotgun Firing Pin Spring on this Model 24, but some later models do have a spring. If your model 24 has a Shotgun Firing Pin Spring then follow the re-installation steps for the Rifle Firing Pin (54, flat head) and Rifle Firing Pin Spring (55) described below.
Install the Rifle Firing Pin Spring over the front end of the Rifle Firing Pin and install in the upper firing pin hole. Screw in the Rifle Firing Pin Screw until it is tight against the Rifle Firing Pin. The Rifle Firing Pin should not move. Back out the Rifle Firing Pin Screw ¼ turn to allow for the Rifle Firing Pin to move in/out freely, but still be retained within the Receiver/Frame. The Rifle Firing Pin Spring will fully retract the Rifle Firing Pin into the Receiver/Frame’s standing breech. Install the Trigger Spring (73) within the recess on the top of the Trigger (74) with the Trigger Spring’s short leg against the Trigger and the long leg against the Receiver/Frame. Insert the Trigger Pin (72) right to left side of the Receiver/Frame.
Install the Trigger Guard (70) by screwing in the Rear Trigger Guard Screw (69) followed by the Front Trigger Guard Screw (71).
Install the Locking Bolt Assembly (65) with the hole in the top portion facing upward to match up with the hole in the Receiver/Frame and the lower Locking Block portion of the Locking Bolt Assembly in an upward position to miss the Front Trigger Guard Screw. Install the Locking Bolt Pin (66), from right to left.
Install the Selector (52 or 53) on the right side of the Locking Bolt Assembly and slide up into the notched portion of the upper Receiver/Frame behind the Rifle and Shotgun Firing Pins. Install the Selector Button Plunger Spring (50) and Selector Button Plunger (47 or 48). Depress the Selector Button Plunger with a small diameter punch and insert the Selector Button (51) into the hole in the Selector. Verify that the Selector moves up and down when the Selector Button is moved up and down. Note different versions of the Selector Button have a Selector Button Screw (49) that is screwed into the Selector to secure the Selector to the Selector Button.
Prior to installing the Hammer Pin (58) you will need to pull the Trigger back slightly to line up the Trigger’s integral Sear with its notch in the Hammer (26). With the Trigger slightly pulled, simultaneously pull up on the Locking Bolt Assembly to line up the hole in the Hammer to the hole within the Receiver/Frame. Insert the Hammer Pin making sure that the Hammer Pin does not go all the through on the right side of the Receiver/Frame as not to bind the Selector Button’s movement. Verify that the Hammer is correctly seated on the Trigger’s Sear by pulling the Hammer backward. You should hear the two clicks as the Trigger’s Sear fall into the Safe and Full Cock Notches of the Hammer. You can test to see that the Hammer falls on either of the selected Firing Pins by moving the Selector Button up and down and manually pushing the Trigger forward until it stops against the Receiver/Frame. With the Hammer fully forward the selected Firing Pin should stick out past the Receiver’s/Frame’s standing breech face. Note, only the selected Firing Pin should stick out when struck by the combined action of the Hammer and Selector.
Install the Top Snap (44) into the hole in the top Tang of the Receiver/Frame and through the Locking Block Assembly (65) control arm. Install the Top Snap Sleeve (45) onto the bottom of the Top Snap, matching up their flat mating surfaces. Also ensure that the cut out portion of the Top Snap Sleeve mates with the cut out in the Locking Bolt Assembly control arm. Screw the Top Snap Screw (46) from the bottom of the Top Snap Sleeve into bottom of the Top Snap. Make sure that the Top Snap Screw is tight but that the Top Snap is free to move side to side. Install the Locking Bolt Plunger Assembly which consists of the Locking Bolt Plunger (42) and the Locking Bolt Plunger Spring (43) by compressing the Locking Bolt Plunger Spring and pushing the shaft of the Locking Bolt Plunger into the hole on the left side of the Receiver/Frame Tang’s vertical rear section. Slip the front end of the Locking Bolt Plunger Assembly into the hole on the left side of the Locking Bolt Assembly control arm. The Locking Bolt Plunger is slightly bent and the bowed section must face downward (forming a smile) or towards the outside of the Receiver/Frame. Install the Top Snap Plunger (41) and Top Snap Plunger Spring (40) in a similar manner but into the right side hole of the Receiver/Frame Tang’s vertical rear section and within the horizontal slot of the Top Snap Sleeve. The Top Snap Plunger is installed with the extended “U” shaped arm towards the inside or center of the Receiver/Frame.
With the Hammer fully forward against the Receiver/Frame install the Main Spring Assembly with its retaining pin. Install the front end of the Main Spring Plunger in between the Locking Bolt Assembly legs and resting on the lower curved section of the Hammer with the longer front finger of the Main Spring Plunger within the slot on the top of the Hammer’s curved section. Install the Main Spring Plunger Seat into the hole within the bottom of the Tang’s rear vertical section. Cock the Hammer until it is retained in its full cock notch by the Trigger’s Sear. Remove the retaining pin from the Main Spring Assembly. While holding the Hammer pull the Trigger rearward and slowly let the Hammer fall forward onto the Receiver/Frame. Verify that the Trigger and Hammer function as designed and that the Hammer returns to its rebounded position and remains in the rebounded position with the Trigger’s Sear in the Hammer’s safe notch when the Trigger is released.
Buttstock w/Buttplate installation
Slide the Buttstock (77) over the Top and Bottom Tang of the Receiver/Frame.
Insert the Stock Bolt (78) and Stock Bolt Washer (79) into the Buttstock.
Use a long large flat head screw driver to screw in the Stock Bolt to the Receiver’s/Frame’s threaded hole located in the Tangs rear vertical section.
Place the Buttplate (76) on the end of the Buttstock and screw the Buttplate on using the 2 Buttstock Screws (75).
Rifle Extractor installation
Install the Extractor Spring (10) in the top hole to the left side of the Rifle Barrel followed by the Extractor (9). Depress the Extractor then screw in and bottom out the Extractor Screw (8).
Shotgun Extractor Installation
Install the Extractor Lever Spring (18) into the hole below the Shotgun Barrel.
Install the Extractor Lever (17) in the same hole as above.
Install the Extractor Lever Pin (16) from right to left.
Install the Extractor Plunger (15) and Shotgun Extractor (12 or 13) in the same hole as above
While the Extractor is depressed, install the Extractor Stop Pin (14) from right to left. Release the Shotgun Extractor, it should be under spring tension and free to move in and out.
Front Sight, Rear Sight, and Rear Sight Step Installation
Using a non-marring punch install the Rear Sight (1, 2, or 3) from right to left within the center of the dovetail in the Rifle Barrel. Insert the Rear Sight Step (4 or 5) within the Rear Sight’s backend slot.
Screw the Front Sight (6) to the front end of the Rifle Barrel with the Front Site Screw (7).
Barrel Installation
With the Barrel (11) in its open position place the Barrel Bite onto the Receiver’s/Frame’s Hinge Pin.
Close the Barrel to ensure that it closes correctly and that the Locking Bolt assembly is functioning as designed. The Barrel should fit tight onto the Receiver’s/Frames standing breech with little if any up and down or forward and back movement.
Forend Wood Assembly Installation
Install the Forend Head (62) to the Forend Wood by screwing in the two (2) Forend Head Screws (61).
Install the Forend Spring (35, “S” shaped) onto the Forend Spring Housing (38) with the Forend Spring Pin (39) from right to left.
Insert the Forend Spring Spring (36) onto the Forend Spring Housing with its two legs resting on the bottom of the Forend Spring and the closed end of the Forend Spring Spring resting on the bottom side of the center section of the “S” shaped Forend Spring.
Install the Forend Spring Spring Pin (37) to secure the Forend Spring Spring to the Forend Spring Housing from right to left.
Verify that the Forend Spring is spring loaded.
Install the Forend Wood Assembly into the Forend Wood and secure with the two (2) Forend Spring Housing Screws (34).
Install the Forend Head into the front end of the Receiver/Frame and press the Forend onto the bottom of the Shotgun Barrel making sure that the Forend Spring locks onto the Shotgun Barrel’s lower Barrel Lug. The Forend should snap in place when seated correctly against the bottom of the Shotgun Barrel.
ADDITIONAL DISASSEMBLY/ASSEMBLY INFORMATION FOR THE MAIN SPRING ASSEMBLY
Assembly of the Main Spring Assembly
The following is a simplified method to reinstall the Main Spring Plunger Seat (21), Main Spring Washer (22), Main Spring (23), and Main Spring Plunger (24) as a single assembly back in the gun and will aide in the disassembly of the gun in the future. With the above parts disassembled from the gun perform the following steps;
Center punch mark the Main Spring Plunger Seat in the center, half way from either end.
Mount the Main Spring Plunger Seat in a drill press vise making sure it is perfectly horizontal and level, and at a 90 degree angle to the center line of a 1/16" or smaller drill mounted in the drill's chuck.
Make sure that the end of the drill matches up with the center punch mark on the Main Spring Plunger Seat.
Slide the main Spring Plunger into the Main Spring Plunger Seat so that the end of the plunger and the rounded end of the Main Spring Plunger Seat line up. The head of the Main Spring Plunger should be horizontal and level, not vertical as it is when installed in the gun.
Retain the Main Spring Plunger so it does not move and carefully drill through the Main Spring Plunger Seat and Main Spring Plunger. These parts should drill fairly easily.
Remove both parts from the drill press vise and debur all drilled surfaces, especially the inside surfaces of the Main Spring Plunger Seat and the shaft of the Main Spring Plunger.
Assemble the Main Spring Plunger Seat, Main Spring, Main Spring Washer, and Main Spring Plunger as if they were to be installed in the gun.
Place the assembly in a vise and compress the Main Spring until the holes in the Main Spring Plunger Seat and Main Spring Plunger line up. This should occur when the end of the Main Spring Plunger is even with the rounded end of the Main Spring Plunger Seat.
Insert an appropriate sized retaining pin through the holes in both the Main Spring Plunger Seat and Main Spring Plunger to secure the assembly.
Insert the Main Spring Assembly into the Receiver/Frame after installing the Hammer and Trigger. The retaining pin should face out the right hand side of the Receiver/Frame.
Cock the Hammer so that the Trigger’s Sear is secured within the Hammer’s full cock notch.
Use needle nose pliers to remove the retaining pin and then slowly release the Hammer by pulling the Trigger. The Main Spring Assembly is installed.
Disassembly of the Main Spring Assembly
The following steps can be used to remove the Main Spring Assembly as a unit from the gun.
Cock the Hammer so that the Trigger’s Sear is secured within the Hammer’s full cock notch.
Using a needle nose pliers insert the retaining pin into the hole located on the Main Spring Plunger.
Pull the Trigger to release the Trigger’s Sear from the Hammer’s full cock notch.
The Main Spring Assembly is installed.
Hopefully the above steps are clear. Sorry I do not have any pictures, but if you have any questions you can contact me via this board or through my email: nraskin@comcast.net
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Post by neilrr on Apr 30, 2015 13:57:33 GMT -5
carpenter,
Just to let you know that I am working on the disassembly/reassembly instructions and will post them on a new separate post under the heading: SAVAGE (STEVENS) MODEL 22-410 COMBINATION GUN DISASSEMBLY/REASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS. I hope to complete the instructions by the end of this week or early next week, time permitting.
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