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Post by neilrr on Nov 18, 2014 18:22:00 GMT -5
You can try either Numrich (Gun Parts Corp.) or "Out Back Gun Parts, Inc" located in New Albany, IN, phone number: 812-945-0480, website: www.outbackgunparts.com, or email: outbackgunpartsws@sbcglobal.net. You will need to send him a picture of the part(s) from the gun's schematic including part number, and all of the specifics about your gun. He is not the cheapest place to get parts, but usually has the right parts.
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Post by neilrr on Oct 13, 2014 6:26:10 GMT -5
If you want to spend about $30 you can get a DVD from American Gunsmithing Institute that gives a very good detailed video explanation on how to take apart a Steven (Savage) 22-410. I used it on my 1965 model and the video directions were very good for disassembly and re-assembly.
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Post by neilrr on Oct 10, 2014 21:46:32 GMT -5
The 222 rifle firing pin for the 24V series A, B, C, and D are all the same. Numrich (Gun Parts Corp.) has a 24V-B schematic with a picture of the 222 rifle firing pin. Per Numrich they have this firing pin in stock, but no rifle firing pin spring. However, you will see that they do have the shotgun firing pin in stock. Per Jack First's Gun Parts Book 13, Volume 3, Shotgun parts and accessories the two springs are the same part number and thus should be interchangeable for the 24V series of guns. Hope this is helpful.
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Post by neilrr on Oct 10, 2014 8:04:07 GMT -5
You can also try finding a replacement firing pin and spring at "Out Back Gun Parts, Inc" located in New Albany, IN, phone number: 812-945-0480, website: www.outbackgunparts.com, or email: outbackgunpartsws@sbcglobal.net. You will need to send him a picture of the part(s) from the gun's schematic including part number, and all of the specifics about your gun. He is not the cheapest place to get parts, but usually has the right parts.
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Post by neilrr on Sept 29, 2014 6:28:52 GMT -5
American Gunsmithing Institute (AGI) has a detailed disassemble/reassemble DVD for the Savage Model 24. It is found in their Guntech Volume #50. You can purchase the DVD from their website. I have used this DVD and found it very helpful. Also you can see my previous post on how to disassemble/reassemble the mainspring assembly. This seems to be one of the hardest parts for most people to disassemble/reassemble on the 24. As mentioned by captcapsize there are other numerous posts on this subject within this forum
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Post by neilrr on Sept 22, 2014 8:09:56 GMT -5
The pivot or hinge pin can be removed by pressing it out and installed by driving it back in. The hing pin is an interference fit within the receiver or frame. Once re-installed the ends of the hinge pin need to be smoothed to match the sides of the receiver. Normally you only remove the hinge pin if there is a problem with the fit up of the barrel's bites (the portion of the barrel that rotates on the hing pin) and the hinge pin that is causing the barrel not to lock up correctly. Most hinge pins are made from case hardened steel. If the firearm does not lock up correctly and is loose then an over sized pin can be installed by drilling/reaming the openings in the receiver and the barrel's bits adjusted to fit the large hinge pin's diameter. This is a lot of work, but doable. The real question is there a specific reason for wanting to remove the hinge pin?
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Post by neilrr on Sept 22, 2014 6:42:43 GMT -5
sneektip - the method I described above is used in almost all new rifles and handguns to support removal and re-installation of the firearm's main spring. I used a 1/16" hole, which is a fairly standard size hole found on new firearms. The plunger seat is drilled completely through. The only time there is direct pressure on the plunger's shaft is when it is under tension when the spring is compressed when the pin is installed. During normal use, the main spring only puts pressure on the head of the plunger and the plunger seat, not on the shaft. The shaft only acts as a guide. It is important that you make sure that the holes in both the plunger shaft and plunger seat are drilled through their centers and not off center. If done correctly there should be no issues.
captcasize - the method you described is certainly another viable method to re-install the main spring assembly. The method that I described also makes it easier to remove the main spring as a complete assembly. It also allows the main spring assembly to remain in one piece until it is reinstalled. I was taught not to alter a receiver (the firearm's registered part) during my gunsmithing training unless it was broken and you were making repairs to it.
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Post by neilrr on Sept 8, 2014 12:59:31 GMT -5
I have noticed that a lot of members are hesitant to take their older model 24's completely apart because they do not know how to easily reinstall the main spring plunger seat, main spring plunger and main spring as a single assembly back in the gun. There is a simple method to resolve this issue that I have successfully used on my 1963 24 22/410 and other firearms with similar type main spring assemblies. Please look at the write-up and advise if you need further instructions or try it to see how it works for you. I hope that this is helpful.
1. Center punch the main spring plunger seat in the center, half way from either end.
2. Mount the main spring plunger seat in a drill press vise making sure it is perfectly horizontal and level, and at a 90 degree angle to the center line of a 1/16" or smaller drill mounted in the drill's chuck.
3. Make sure that the end of the drill matches up with the center punch mark on the main spring plunger seat.
4. Slide the main spring plunger into the main spring plunger seat so that the end of the plunger and the rounded end of the plunger seat line up. The head of the main spring plunger should be horizontal and level, not vertical as it is when installed in the firearm.
5. Holding the main spring plunger so it does not move and carefully drill through the main spring plunger seat and main spring plunger. These parts should drill fairly easily.
6. Remove both parts from the drill press vise and debur all drilled surfaces, especially the inside surfaces of the main spring plunger seat and the shaft of the main spring plunger.
7. Assemble the main spring plunger seat, main spring, and main spring plunger as if they were to be installed in the firearm.
8. Place the assembly in a vise and compress the main spring until the holes in the main spring plunger seat and main spring plunger line up. This should occur when the end of the main spring plunger is even with the rounded end of the main spring plunger seat.
9. Insert an appropriate sized pin through the holes in both the main spring plunger seat and main spring plunger to secure the assembly.
10. Insert the assembly into the receiver after installing the hammer and trigger. The pin should face out the right hand side of the receiver.
11. Cock the hammer so that the trigger is securely in the full cock notch.
12. Using a needle nose pliers remove the pin and then slowly release the hammer by pulling the trigger. The main spring plunger seat, main spring, and main spring plunger should be installed.
13. Reverse steps 12 - 10 to remove the assembly from the firearm during the disassembly process.
Hopefully the above steps are clear. Sorry I do not have any pictures, but if you have any questions you can contact me via this board.
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Post by neilrr on Aug 19, 2014 7:23:41 GMT -5
For a replacement .22 extractor you can try Out Back Gun Parts, Inc located in New Albany, IN, phone number: 812-945-0480, website: www.outbackgunparts.com, or email: outbackgunpartsws@sbcglobal.net. He has a large inventory of parts for older model guns. You will need to send him a picture of the part from the gun's schematic including part number, and all of the specifics about your gun. He is not the cheapest place to get parts, but usually has the right parts.
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Post by neilrr on Aug 19, 2014 7:15:28 GMT -5
The .22 rifle firing pin is not very hard to remove, even with the entire gun assembled. The .22 rifle firing pin is spring loaded. For your information the lower .410 shot gun firing pin is not spring loaded. Make sure that the selector is lowered and not covering the .22 rifle firing pin. Use a flat head screw driver or punch and depress the .22 rifle firing pin inward. Using a small screw driver remove the top of the two retaining screws located on the right side of the receiver just opposite of the .22 rifle firing pin. Slowly remove the flat head screw driver or punch and the .22 firing pin should come out with the small spring. Do not purchase the .22 rifle firing pin from Numrich - the nose is cut the wrong way. I returned the one they sent me and purchased a .410 shot gun firing pin and stoned it to the correct shape. You want the end of the .22 rifle firing pin when installed with the flat on the right side and the nose of the firing pin to be vertical in the shape of an "|", similar to any .22 firing pin when installed. To reassemble, make sure the selector is out of the way, place the .22 firing pin and spring (lightly greased) into the receiver. Using a flat head screw driver or punch depress the .22 rifle firing pin inward. Screw in the retaining screw until it is tight. Back it off about 1/4 turn to allow the .22 rifle firing pin to move freely, but still be retained in the receiver. That is the entire process. Good luck. If I can help out with anything else let me know.
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Post by neilrr on Aug 13, 2014 6:48:52 GMT -5
You can try Out Back Gun Parts, Inc located in New Albany, IN, phone number: 812-945-0480, website: www.outbackgunparts.com, or email: outbackgunpartsws@sbcglobal.net. He has a large inventory of parts for older model guns. You will need to send him a picture of the part from the gun's schematic including part number, and all of the specifics about your gun. He is not the cheapest place to get parts, but was the only parts dealer where I could find a mainspring plunger for my older model .22/.410.
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Post by neilrr on Aug 12, 2014 16:58:38 GMT -5
I just completed rebuilding my 1963 Stevens .22/.410, including reshaping/reinstalling the original .22 firing pin. What do you want to know?
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Post by neilrr on Jun 26, 2014 14:51:03 GMT -5
The rear site sight in a dovetail on the barrel. Lightly tap the sight on the left side at the dovetail connection using a nylon or brass punch to remove the site. The rear sight comes out left to right and reassemble right to left. The dovetail is slightly angled with one side larger than the other.
From the picture it looks like you are missing the ramp. If you need parts you can get most of them at Numrich Gun Parts.
If you want to spend about $30 you can get a DVD from American Gunsmithing Institute that gives a very good detailed video explanation on how to take apart an old style Steven (Savage) 22-410. I used it on my 1965 model and the video directions were very good for disassembly and re-assembly.
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Post by neilrr on Apr 23, 2014 16:03:14 GMT -5
Thanks cw,
I thought it was a 22-410 and the stock looks like and has the same characteristics of wood.
This is my first shotgun, I just could not resist having a combination gun. I have worked on many pistols, revolvers, and rifles, but no shotguns. Are there any disassemble instructions around? I do not want to break or loose any parts during the disassembly/cleaning/reassembly phases. I am waiting on some replacement parts from one of my parts suppliers.
Can you help me with the 6P marking or at least point in the direction of a cipher?
I appreciate any help, thanks.
neilrr
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Post by neilrr on Apr 22, 2014 9:08:29 GMT -5
I recently picked up .22/.410 combination gun. I think it is an early Savage 24 Model. However there is no "Model Number" on the right side of the frame. The only markings found on the barrel (bottom), stock (end), and frame (receiver - inside) are stamped “A” and “S”, and the barrel also has a “J”. All three “A" and "S” stampings are followed by two symbols: a circle with a rectangle going through it. The butt plate has a number “1” with the following symbol on top: 3 interlocking solid circles. The stock and forend are wood, but I do not know if the are walnut or tenite. How can I determine if they are tenite or walnut? Also can anyone tell me what model I have and the year it was made?
Lastly, I am in the middle of taking the gun completely a part to clean and replace some broken parts. This is the first shotgun style gun that I am working on. I am down to the fire control system and want to know if any one has a written or video procedure for disassembly/reassembly.
I appreciate any help - thanks
Edited additional information - I cleaned the barrel and found the following markings inside of a circle on the barrel: 6P. The gun barrel is 24" long, the barrels are brazed together their entire length, it is a top lever opening gun, with a right side button to designate which barrel is to be fired.
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