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Post by neilrr on Mar 11, 2015 7:30:22 GMT -5
Welcome. as littleguns stated disassembling the 24 is not very difficult if you follow the following link: savage24forum.boards.net/thread/360/basic-disassemble-reassemble-savage-model One major problem area is removing and reinstalling the main spring, you need three hands. I previously posted step by step instructions on how to do this in a simple fashion, see the link below: savage24forum.boards.net/thread/591/disassemble-reassemble-main-spring-older 24s You can usually find parts at Numrich Gun Parts. If they are out of stock then try "Out Back Gun Parts, Inc" located in New Albany, IN, phone number: 812-945-0480, website: www.outbackgunparts.com, or email: outbackgunpartsws@sbcglobal.net. If you try Out Back you will need to send him a picture of the part(s) from the gun's schematic including part number, and all of the specifics about your gun. He is not the cheapest place to get parts, but usually has the right parts. Good luck. If you need any help just ask.
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Post by neilrr on Jan 24, 2015 7:59:55 GMT -5
I will give this request a starting point for other to chime in.
1. First and foremost schematics of your specific model gun including part numbers. This will help you in the disassembly and reassembly of your gun. 2. Various sizes of springs that can be cut to length or at least spring material to make springs. I have a home made spring former. 3. Various sizes of screws for wood and metal. 4. Metal round stock of various sizes to make pins. 5. Shotgun and rifle firing pins. In a pinch I have formed a rifle firing pin from a shotgun firing pin. 6. Extractors seem to be a major part that fails so I keep a spare. Note - the combo guns will usually function without an extractor. I just makes it hard for the shooter to remove spent cases. 7. Hammer strut/guide. I had one fail and these are had to find for the early Stevens 22/410's.
If I order a replacement part that had previously failed and I can get two and that they are reasonably priced I order two keeping one for a spare thinking of potential future failures of the same part.
I purchase "parts" guns, rusted or non-functional junkers that no one wants at very reasonable prices for spares of my working guns. Especially those with stocks and/or forearms in good shape.
Lastly, an updated contact list of parts suppliers.
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Post by neilrr on Jan 19, 2015 20:08:49 GMT -5
Glad to hear you have resolved the spring issue.
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Post by neilrr on Jan 17, 2015 11:42:13 GMT -5
Per the schematic the Savage 24S 22/20 shows a firing pin spring for both the rifle and shotgun firing pins. The firing pin springs are the same part number, key number: 8, part number: 24-83.
ADDED: The spring is very small, it fits over the nose of the firing pin, is maybe 3-4 coils at most, and open at both ends. In the past someone on this board used a spring cut down from a retractable ball point pen.
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Post by neilrr on Jan 17, 2015 8:38:07 GMT -5
Marc, the problem you might be having is in Jack First's Gun Parts book the extractor for a 24V series 222/20 is listed as a part that must be fitted by a gunsmith and is usually not sold directly to a consumer, but only to a gunsmith. If you still have not had any success you might want to try a local German gunsmith that could possibly order and fit the part for you?
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Post by neilrr on Jan 17, 2015 8:22:02 GMT -5
The earlier model Stevens 22/410 and Savage 22/20 only had a spring on the rifle firing pin. Later models like the Savage 24C and 24D had both a shotgun and rifle firing pin spring, but Savage models 24E, 24H, 24J, etc. only had rifle firing pin springs. So it depends on what model you have. If you can tell me what model 22/20 you have I can check the schematics to let you know if there is a shotgun firing pin spring or not.
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Post by neilrr on Jan 1, 2015 10:46:30 GMT -5
deadeye - thanks for the update. Looking at the part I can easily understand how it could go in backward and affect how the gun would lockup, especially if you did not have a schematic to look at.
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Post by neilrr on Dec 31, 2014 9:29:48 GMT -5
Great work resolving the lockup issue. Just be inquisitive what part was in backwards?
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Post by neilrr on Dec 29, 2014 17:00:39 GMT -5
You can see my previous post on how to disassemble/reassemble the mainspring assembly. This seems to be one of the hardest parts for most people to disassemble/reassemble on the 24. The thread is entitled: Savage24forum.boards.net/thread/591/disassemble-reassemble-main-spring-older 24s
American Gunsmithing Institute (AGI) has a detailed disassemble/reassemble DVD for the Savage Model 24. It is found in their Guntech Volume #50. You can purchase the DVD from their website. I have used this DVD and found it very helpful.
good luck
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Post by neilrr on Dec 29, 2014 10:33:17 GMT -5
deadeye - has this gun been previously fired with reloads that were possibly overloads? With plastic cases you need to use plastic wads, primers, loads, and powder weight that are specific for that particular plastic case. If a hotter primer and the wrong size plastic wads are used even with the correct load and power weight an overload (over pressure condition) can occur. The gun will not blow up, as it is designed to take a certain amount of over pressure but the overload would stretch the fit up of the barrel bite (barrel lug) and the receiver lug causing head space as you have described. Adding tape, as you have described, on the barrel bite (barrel lug) will compensate for the above described condition.
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Post by neilrr on Dec 29, 2014 7:27:45 GMT -5
deadeye, when you say there is "play" in the gun when it is locked up do you mean that the barrels can be physically moved back and forth when the gun is locked up? I do not know if it is an optical illusion or not, but when the gun is locked up is the top of the barrel even with the top of the receiver? In your picture it looks like the top of the 22 barrel is higher than the top of the receiver. This would mean that the barrels are not seating properly in the receiver. These two components should be even with one another when the gun is locked up closed. As leaf suggests did the previous owner put the gun back together correctly? How far did he go in the disassembly process? The barrels should close tightly on the receiver even without the forearm in place with little if any head space between the barrels and the receiver. The forearm should only be putting sufficient tension on the barrel bites and the receiver lug to prevent the barrel bits from slipping out of the receiver lug when the gun is opened.
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Post by neilrr on Dec 28, 2014 19:29:58 GMT -5
Sentry 44 - Try "Out Back Gun Parts, Inc" located in New Albany, IN, phone number: 812-945-0480, website: www.outbackgunparts.com, or email: outbackgunpartsws@sbcglobal.net. He has a lot of hard to find parts. You will need to send him a picture of the part from the gun's schematic including part number, and all of the specifics about your gun. Good luck.
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Post by neilrr on Dec 21, 2014 12:23:49 GMT -5
odell23 - thanks for clearing up the reason for the left hand receiver location for the selector button.
leaf - you are absolutely correct about the stocks being fitted on a slight angle on an expensive shotgun for a left or right handed shooter. It does make the shotgun feel like it fits better on the shooter's shoulder.
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Post by neilrr on Dec 20, 2014 14:24:08 GMT -5
I like both you smart and non-smart-ass answers, but in this case I do not totally agree with them. The selector button position on the receiver could make the gun a right hand or left hand gun. With the selector button on the right side it is not easy for a left hand shooter to manipulate the selector button up and down without moving his or her trigger hand. With the selector button on the left side it is directly accessible to a left trigger hand. As to other 24 models or break open guns in general that do not use a selector button on the receiver I would totally agreed with both your smart-ass as well as the non-smart answers.
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Post by neilrr on Dec 20, 2014 8:22:08 GMT -5
At a gun show yesterday I came across a version of the 24 that I had not seen before. The gun had the selector button on the left side of the gun, not the right side. The internal selector arm had been removed and the hammer had been replaced with a newer design that manually adjusts to fire either the .22 or .410 barrel. I am assuming this was a left handed version of the 24. Has anyone else come across this version of the 24?
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