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Post by neilrr on Dec 5, 2017 11:10:56 GMT -5
czvz, before you try taking the hammer out of the gun try warming the area of the hammer where the barrel selector plunger is located. When warm (not hot), spray with kroil or similar lubricant. After spraying, let the gun set for a couple of minutes and then reheat the same area again to help draw in the lubricant. Make sure the firing pin selector is set to fire the shotgun barrel, not the rifle (rim fire) barrel. Then while the gun is still warm dry fire it several times to see if this action frees up the plunger. If this does not work, send me a message with your email address and I will email you a detailed disassembly/reassembly write-up I posted several years ago that can be applied to your Camper. Once you have the write-up I can help you, it needed, with the disassembly/reassembly process.
Good luck, neilrr
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Post by neilrr on Dec 3, 2017 20:11:47 GMT -5
The rim fire firing pin for the 24E is the same shape and part number as for your 24S.
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Post by neilrr on Dec 3, 2017 17:23:55 GMT -5
Welcome, I have had the same issue with our friends at Numrich several times. In your case, when the flat side of the Numrich supplied rim fire firing pin (part #4, Jack First's schematic for Model 24S) is orientated correctly (vertically) in the gun to allow the firing pin screw (part #6) to retain it, the face of the rim fire firing pin is horizontal, not vertical. The easiest way to correct this issue is to purchase the shotgun firing pin (part #5) which is identical to the rim fire firing pin for this Model 24 except for the shape of the firing pin face. You can take the shotgun firing pin, orientate it with the flat edge vertical and grind a vertical face on end of the firing pin. During this reshaping process you need to maintain the length of the original shotgun firing pin as much as possible. For the price of the shotgun firing pin, I would purchase several in case you have any issues when forming the rim fire firing pin. Good luck and if you need any further help just ask.
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Post by neilrr on Oct 7, 2017 7:34:59 GMT -5
laneydpt2006 - I suggest that you try bigkelly's fix first, this repair is simple and will save a lot of money. If you still have issues then you can try looking on line at "GunsmithUSA". They have listings for gunsmiths by state. You can contact them to see if any have experience with 24's and if so, will they work on your 24 V. Good luck. Hope this helps.
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Post by neilrr on Aug 19, 2017 9:03:09 GMT -5
bigkelly, based upon your input, then my earlier assumption on how the gun got to has a different series 24V barrel than that shown on the receiver is plausible. I appreciate your input.
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Post by neilrr on Aug 18, 2017 17:31:57 GMT -5
Does anyone have a list of which barrels can be exchanged from one model 24 to the other?
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Post by neilrr on Aug 18, 2017 17:29:01 GMT -5
I stand corrected on the A series, but what about a B and D series for a 24V?
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Post by neilrr on Aug 18, 2017 14:51:47 GMT -5
Welcome to the forum. Based upon the schematics for the model 24V, 222 over 20 gauge barrel assemblies for any of the series: A, B, C, and D should be interchangeable. Therefore it is possible that some time during this combos' history the original 222/20 series D barrel assembly was replaced with a series B barrel assembly in the same calibers. Anyway, hope the combo functions well and you have a great time shooting.
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Post by neilrr on Jun 5, 2017 17:31:29 GMT -5
mart and James - one additional item, when you reassemble the 24V I would (and have on my own 24V) put a couple of drops of the semi-permanent "blue" (not the permanent "red") LockTite on the top snap screw threads to help keep the screw from loosening up in the future.
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Post by neilrr on Jun 5, 2017 7:33:50 GMT -5
mart...welcome to the forum. I have several 24's including a 24V, in .222 Rem/20ga. The instructions referenced by painter were written for an earlier model 24 (thanks painter for the nice words concerning the guide), but can be used on the 24V. Many of the components in the various 24's are the same and the write-up can be applied. If you need any additional help, just post your question and I will try to help you.
The issue you have experienced is usually due to a loose top snap screw which has allowed the top snap to disengage from the locking block assembly. If you still are having problems opening the gun then you need to do the following: remove the fore-end by pulling the front portion of the fore-end downward away from the barrels, remove the butt plate and stock, and using a hook pull the locking block rearwards. This will unlock the barrels for removal from the receiver. Once this is accomplished you can proceed to dismantle the gun for a detailed inspection, cleaning, and lubrication of the various components prior to reassembly. Good luck.
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Post by neilrr on May 19, 2017 5:21:54 GMT -5
Push the selector button up into the rifle firing position. This will allow access to the hammer pin to remove it right to left. I think you are looking at the locking bolt pin which is removed left to right. You should now have access to the selector button plunger.
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Post by neilrr on May 18, 2017 22:23:16 GMT -5
Great....remove the fore-end and barrels, then remove the stock, follow the write-up on how to perform these tasks. Once the stock is removed you will see a small hole at the rear end of the receiver where the stock mates to the receiver just rear of the selector button. Use a thin punch, place it in this hole by-passing the selector button and push the selector button plunger inward towards the front of the receiver. This will free the selector button and allow you to pull it out of the receiver. Be careful not to launch the selector button plunger and plunger spring once the selector button is removed. Follow the other disassembly steps to remove the selector and install the new components in the kit. Good luck and if you need further help just ask.
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Post by neilrr on May 18, 2017 20:00:43 GMT -5
Ok, too far, so we will do it here. Please confirm that when you got the replacement selector kit from Numrich that it included a new selector, screw, and a selector button that the screw screws into.
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Post by neilrr on May 18, 2017 18:15:46 GMT -5
Before we try to do this using emails, are you located in the northeast? I am, unfortunately, located in north central NJ, near the PA border off 78. If you are close enough we could possibly meet and I could help you out.
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Post by neilrr on May 18, 2017 16:47:24 GMT -5
lucky13...I have been off the forum for a while and just saw that painter referred you to an old post of mine on disassembly/reassembly of an early model 24 with the side selector. Do you have access to a schematic so that you will understand the names of the various components and their location on the firearm? If not you need to get one. If you can't, leave your email address here and I will forward one to match your model 24. Once you have the schematic I can help walk you through the disassembly process if needed. Removing the side selector button is not too difficult.
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