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Post by neilrr on Apr 18, 2017 6:56:23 GMT -5
crustyrusty - welcome and sorry to hear that you have having issues with the 24SE. If you can describe what the issues are in detail that you are experiencing, and what you have tried, I will try to help you. If I cannot then maybe some other member can.
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Post by neilrr on Apr 17, 2017 6:43:13 GMT -5
heathen, a couple of questions...when you close the gun does the shotgun extractor close under the rim of the shotgun shell? Also when you open the gun with a shell in the chamber is the extractor still caught under the rim of the shotgun shell or is it pulled away from the shotgun shell with the shotgun shell still in the chamber?
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Post by neilrr on Mar 28, 2017 15:29:35 GMT -5
jr is correct, all of the 24's I am familiar with all have rifle and shotgun extractors, not ejectors. A review of the 24C and the 24C Series M, P, and S schematics indicate that the rifle barrel definitely has an extractor. However, the shotgun barrel for all 24C variations is listed as having an ejector and ejector spring, not an extractor. Can anyone else verify this? So, if this is true, then I have one question for Heathen, does your 24C shotgun ejector have an ejector spring? If the ejector spring is missing this could cause the ejector to malfunction.
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Post by neilrr on Mar 22, 2017 7:30:36 GMT -5
Welcome to the forum. Replacing both firing pins in an older Model 24 .22/.410 is not very difficult. If you want to try it yourself there are several detailed posts on how to disassemble/reassemble this model 24. Parts can be obtained from various sources such as Numrich Gun Parts, Jack First, ebay, etc. Besides needing both the shotgun and rifle firing pins, you will need a spring for the rifle firing pin. The shotgun firing pin does not require a spring. As an alternative any competent gunsmith can do this work for you. Try going to the following site to see if there is one near you: www.gunsmithusa.com. If you need any further help just ask. Good luck.
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Post by neilrr on Mar 6, 2017 13:53:53 GMT -5
crash, welcome to the forum. Have you tried calling Jack First Inc, Gun Parts located in Rapid City, SD? The number there is 605-343-9544. He isn't the cheapest parts supplier, but he usually has the hard to find parts. Good luck.
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Post by neilrr on Mar 3, 2017 22:20:28 GMT -5
diverbob - welcome to the forum. Did the gun lockup correctly before you made the adjustments to the extractor? What adjustments did you do? Also, even though lightly used, it is possible that the chamber is dirty and/or has rough spots, scratches that will cause the round to stick, fired or not. Did you check the chamber for any rough spots after you cleaned it? Lastly, any experienced gunsmith should be able to help resolve these issues. If you advise us as to the city and state in which you live in I might be able to suggest a gunsmith for you.
One additional thought, does the 20 ga shotgun round extract or does it also stick in the chamber? If the shotgun round doesn't extract then the issue is probably with your extractor.
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Post by neilrr on Mar 1, 2017 19:34:50 GMT -5
If anyone is interested Rock Island Auction Company (RIAC) is having an auction on 3/23/17 that has a single lot, #537, that contains four 24's and one 242 O/U shotgun. The four 24's are as follows: 24V-A .222 Rem/20, 24S-E .22/410, 24C-P .22 LR/20, and 24C-N .22 LR/20 and the single 242 is 242C 410/410. The estimated price for the entire lot is $900 - $1400. However, knowing how past auctions at this auction company have gone in the past the lot will probably go for a lot more money. Their website is: www.rockislandauction.com.
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Post by neilrr on Feb 2, 2017 19:29:43 GMT -5
Welcome to the forum. Per Jack First's shotgun catalog the fore-end screw's part number is 94-421 for the 24D Series P, which is the same part number for the 24S, OAL 0.890". It looks like Numrich has this screw in stock for the 24S, but it is expensive and then on top of that you pay for shipping. Instead I suggest that you take the fore-end and the fore-end spring assembly to your local hardware store to match up a screw. If you are not successful at the hardware store you can always order it from Numerich.
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Post by neilrr on Feb 2, 2017 13:54:40 GMT -5
Welcome to the forum. You can go to the following website to find a gunsmith in or near your area: www.gunsmithusa.com Otherwise, if you are some what mechanical you can go to one of my earlier posts with complete directions for disassembly/reassembly of the early Model 24's. If you follow the steps it is not difficult, other forum members have used these directions successfully. Parts can be found at Numrich, Brownells, Jack First, e-bay, etc. Good luck and if you need any help just ask.
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Post by neilrr on Jan 31, 2017 22:50:12 GMT -5
Welcome to the forum you will find a lot of good information here and always someone willing to help a fellow 24 owner. As to your request....to remove the barrels from the receiver you must first replace the screw you removed from the fore-end (forearm). Once the screw is replaced and with the barrels locked up to the receiver you can pull the combined fore-end and fore-end spring housing assembly off of the barrel by grasping the end of the fore-end closest to the muzzle and pulling downward and back towards the receiver. This will allow the spring loaded fore-end to come free from the barrels. With the fore-end removed and as with other 24s you would next rotate the top snap (bolt opening lever) to the right and the barrels will rotate open from the receiver. With the barrels open slide them back slightly towards the receiver to disengage them from the receiver. As to a replacement stock there are several other gun part sites that sell these stocks....Numrich, Brownells, Jack First, etc., all of which can be found on the web. Possibly another forum member might have one for sale. Good luck and if you need any further help with disassembly or repairs please feel free to ask.
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Post by neilrr on Jan 25, 2017 17:16:09 GMT -5
david, wise move. Checking around I have confirmed that PPU brass is definitely thinner, especially rifle brass and has the potential to stick in the chamber. However, I have not heard of any sticking problems with their pistol or revolver ammo. I do not purchase nor try to reload PPU anymore either. The .222 Winchester cases work great for reloading and do not stick in my 24V.
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Post by neilrr on Jan 8, 2017 9:01:05 GMT -5
In the past several people have suggested that a member and/or a guest seek help from a gunsmith in response to their request for help, so I thought the following site might be helpful in locating a local gunsmith. The site is: www.gunsmithusa.com Additionally the following sites my be of assistance for finding firearm specific assembly/disassembly DVD's, parts, tools, training, gun values, etc.: Gunsmith Training and Support
AGI—The American Gunsmithing Institute Hobby and Professional Gunsmithing Courses 351 Second Street Napa, CA 94559 (800) 797-0867 www.americangunsmith.com
GCA—Gun Club of America GunTech DVD Video Magazine and the Connection, Hot Brass Magazine 351 Second Street Napa, CA 94559 (800) 435-4262 www.gunclubofamerica.com Associations
National Rifle Association of America (NRA) 11250 Waples Mill Road Fairfax, VA 22030 www.nra.org
National Shooting Sports Foundation (NSSF) 11 Mile Hill Road Newtown, CT 06470 www.nssf.org
Gun Owners of America 8001 Forbes Plaza, Suite 102 Springfield, VA 22151 www.gunowners.org Tools and Training
4D Reamer Rentals — Fred Zeglin Gunsmithing Tools, Parts, Reamers 432 East Idaho Street Suite C420 Kalispell, MT 59901 (406) 752-2520 www.4-dproducts.com
Brownells Inc Gunsmithing Tools and Supplies 200 South Front Street Montezuma, IA 50171 (800) 741-0015 www.brownells.com
Jack First Parts for Guns Made in the Last 150 Years 1201 Turbine Dr. Rapid City, SD 57703 (605) 343-9544 www.jackfirstgun.com
Numrich/Gun Parts Corp. Parts for Guns Made in the Last 150 Years 226 Williams Ln. Kingston, NY 12401 (866) 686-7424 www.Gunpartscorp.com
Midway USA Shooting and Reloading Supplies 5875 W. Van Horn Tavern Rd. Columbia, MO 65203 (800)-243-3220 www.Midwayusa.com
Targetz™ Downloadable Targets for FREE! www.targetz.com Firearms Training
NRA Certified Pistol Training by Paul Foreman, Athens, Alabama www.paulforeman.com 256-431-6702 Email : Captureman@PaulForeman.com Research
Blue Book of Gun Values Blue Book Publications, Inc. 8009 34th Ave. South, Ste. 250 Minneapolis, MN 55425 800-877-4867 www.Bluebookofgunvalues.com
Please feel free to add any other sites that you think would be good to add here to help out fellow members and guests.
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Post by neilrr on Jan 2, 2017 20:26:55 GMT -5
vancmike, I re-measured the fired PPU case necks and they are definitely thinner than either the new or fired Winchester case necks. I also reloaded 20 of the Winchester cases a second time and fired them last week with no extraction issues. So the only thing I can figure out is that the thinner PPU cases expand more than the Winchester cases and thus stick in the chamber when fired. Any way, I plan to use the Winchester cases and reload. No more PPU ammo. Thanks everyone for your feedback.
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Post by neilrr on Dec 23, 2016 11:39:19 GMT -5
Yes, with the hammer and locking block assembly removed you can access the trigger guard front screw using a long thin flat head screwdriver. When you tighten the screw use the semi permanent blue locktite to keep the screw from vibrating loose. Do not use the red locktite, as it is permanent and must be heated to loosen the screw. Good luck and have a Merry Christmas.
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Post by neilrr on Dec 23, 2016 8:00:19 GMT -5
painter, glad to see that you found the disassembly instructions, if you need them I hope they are helpful. In the past I have not been able to do this repair without at least removing the hammer and locking lug assembly and then I used a tool made from a thin flat head screwdriver whose end was bent at a 90 degree angle. The bent section of the screwdriver is about 1/16" long and shaped to fit the screw head slot. Good luck and if I can help you any further please advise.
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