|
Post by neilrr on Dec 18, 2016 18:53:42 GMT -5
I agree with jrguerra comments on the best place to mount a front sling stud . I have a 24V, .222/20ga, and the sling front stud on this gun is barrel mounted just forward of the fore-end. If the fore-end is a pressure closing type like on the 24V verses a fore-end secured with a screw, the fore-end can be pulled off of the gun if the sling gets caught on a tree branch or other fixed object.
|
|
|
Post by neilrr on Dec 14, 2016 15:00:51 GMT -5
Welcome to the forum. The 24D rear sight is normally a dovetail fit. To remove the rear sight lift up on the rear portion of the sight and slide out the sight step. Then using a non-maring punch (hard plastic) and a small 2 oz hammer tap on the left side of the sight at its dovetail area. The rear sight should break loose with a couple of sharp taps and slide out left to right. To reinstall, tap in from right to left. If you need any further help just ask.
|
|
|
Post by neilrr on Dec 8, 2016 23:02:18 GMT -5
Thanks everyone for the positive feedback. I will try to respond to each below:
4570fan: The PPU case is thinner than the Winchester case. I have resized/trimmed the PPU cases to match the Winchester case dimensions since I know the Winchester cases do not stick. The resized and trimmed PPU cases fit the chamber and extract easily. However, when the PPU reloads are fired they stick tight within the chamber and Winchester reloads do not. The sticking is associated with the PPU cases.
Painter: the extractor tries to extract the PPU fired cases, but the case is so tight in the chamber, that a ram rod is needed to push it out. Once the fired PPU case's base is pushed clear of the chamber, about 1/8", the remainder of the case is extracted easily. I have measured the diameter of PPU and Winchester fired cases in various places and there is a slight difference. The fired PPU cases is about 0.002 - 0.003" greater in diameter at the base of the case. I think that this just might be enough to cause the sticking issue.
leaf: I fired four (4) twenty (20) round boxes of the PPU ammo, from two different lots, and followed up with ten (10) reloads. All new or reloaded PPU case fit the chamber and extract easily prior to firing. However, 98% of the new or reloaded cases stuck tight in the chamber after firing. None of the new or reloaded Winchester cases stuck when fired. As you recommended and is my standard practice, when I first got the gun I stripped it completely, cleaned all of the parts and both barrels, and bronze brushed/polished both the rifle and shotgun chambers then checked them with a borescope - as I previously stated no peaks or valleys were visible. Maybe the slightly larger diameter base of the fired PPU case is causing the sticking issue.
Anyway, I do not plan to buy anymore PPU ammo since I was able to find 300 new Winchester .222 Rem cases. It is definitely cheaper to reload this caliber ammo and less issues.
|
|
|
Post by neilrr on Dec 8, 2016 9:38:07 GMT -5
Has anyone experienced the following issues when firing PPU (Prvi Partizan, manufactured in Serbia) .222 Rem ammo: the fired brass case sticks in the chamber with either new ammo or resized hand loaded cases and a ram rod must be used to extract them? I have a Model 24-V, .222 Rem/20 ga. whose .222 Rem chamber is completely smooth, i.e. no ridges or valleys that could catch on a fired case. New PPU ammo or resized hand loaded PPU cases load into the chamber with no issues and extract easily if not fired. However both new ammo or hand loaded fired PPU cases stick in the chamber. I have hand loaded new and used Winchester .222 Rem brass cases and all fired cases extract with no issues. The fired PPU cases are about 0.005" longer than the fired Winchester cases, but have the same diameter when measuring both the body and neck areas. Friends have fired other caliber PPU ammo, mainly handgun ammo, without issues. However, none have .222 Rem rifles so they have not fired that caliber rifle ammo. Any input is appreciated.
|
|
|
Post by neilrr on Dec 3, 2016 8:49:31 GMT -5
Try Jack First at www.jackfirstgun.com or 605-343-9544. He is located in Rapid City, SD. He is open Mon - Fri, 9 AM - 6 PM, Mountain time. He is not the cheapest place to buy, but I have found several hard to find parts here for 24's and other guns when no one else had them.
|
|
|
Post by neilrr on Nov 19, 2016 8:56:49 GMT -5
First welcome to the forum. First, if you do not have a schematic for your 24V go to Numrich or another source and look for a schematic for your specific model 24. Use the schematic to find the following parts to understand how your gun functions.
The lever or top snap on your 24V has probably come loose from the top snap sleeve. This can happen when the top snap screw comes loose or completely unscrewed, which will allow the top snap to rotate freely and the gun will not unlock/open. If the top snap moves freely, it will not rotate the top snap sleeve to which the top snap plunger and spring attach. These two components, if working correctly, cause the the locking bolt assembly to move away from the locking lug on the barrel which then allows you to open the gun.
To verify this, you will need to remove the butt plate and stock from your gun. Unscrew the butt plate screws, remove the butt plate, and then remove the stock screw using a long flat head screw driver. Slide off the stock. If the top snap screw is loose or completely unscrewed you will need to screw it back in. Remove the forend wood. Then use a screw driver to pull back on the locking bolt assembly to allow the gun to open to allow you to remove the barrels. Remove the barrels.
Next make sure that the top snap sleeve is correctly in place and that both the locking bolt plunger and spring and top snap plunger and spring are installed correctly, if not install per the schematic. To install the top snap screw without taking the mainspring plunger and main spring out you will need to make a special tool. First find a 4" - 6" long handled wide flat head screw driver (that you can modify) that fits tightly into the slot of the top snap screw. Heat the end of the flat head screw driver red hot and peen it over at a 90 degree angle. The bent portion should be no more than 1/4" long. Initially screw in the top snap screw using your fingers and then use the newly formed angled screw driver to tighten the top snap screw. If all of the components are installed correctly (check the schematic) then the locking bolt assembly should move in and out when the top snap is rotated side to side. Replace the barrels on the receiver and reinstall the forend. Close the barrels and try to open them by rotating the top snap to the right. If all works, then reinstall the stock and butt pate. If you want to you can put a little bit of non-permanent locktite on the top snap screw to prevent it from unscrewing again.
I hope this is helpful. If I can be of any further assistance please ask. Good luck.
|
|
|
Post by neilrr on Nov 17, 2016 16:13:39 GMT -5
Welcome to the forum. You can try Jack First at www.jackfirstgun.com or call 605-343-9544. He is located in Rapid City, SD. Make sure you give them the model number: 24 Series D, part number: A25A-140, and the schematic key no.: 49 which is found on the Savage Model 24 Series B, C, and D schematic located in his book for the locking bolt. Good luck.
|
|
|
Post by neilrr on Oct 26, 2016 8:20:24 GMT -5
bigkelly is right, your best bet is to find/purchase another barrel set or an entire gun for the replacement barrel set. If you are really set on relining the .22 barrel then you can obtain a detailed instructional DVD from American Gunsmithing Institute's (AGI) website. The DVD is entitled "Relining .22 Barrels", course #3394. It is a lot of work and if you have access to the right equipment and the skills to operate them or you know someone who will do it for you, it can be a great project. Good luck on which ever way you decide to proceed.
|
|
|
Post by neilrr on Oct 21, 2016 6:48:07 GMT -5
I hope that this helps in your pricing. A week ago while transferring ownership of an AR-15 to my son-in-law at a local PA gun store I purchased a mid 60's 24V, .222/20ga for $570 (gun, tax, and registration) in very good condition with no mechanical issues and only light handling marks on the wooden stock and fore-end. I had passed on the same model at a gun show earlier that day that the dealer was asking $710 and would not budge on his pricing. The gun show Savage 24V was not in as good of condition, had some mechanical issues, minor external rust spots on the receiver and barrels, and questionable bores since they were both dirty.
|
|
|
Post by neilrr on Oct 15, 2016 12:02:29 GMT -5
Happy to hear that the repair was successful. If you need any further help just ask.
|
|
|
Post by neilrr on Oct 13, 2016 22:51:05 GMT -5
Go to the Numrich website and look up the 24V-A schematic under Savage/Stevens to see the correct position for installing the trigger spring. The two legs of the trigger spring, one longer than the other, both face rearward with the longer leg of the spring on top. Once the trigger spring is installed correctly there should be tension on the trigger in the forward direction.
|
|
|
Post by neilrr on Oct 13, 2016 22:45:37 GMT -5
Painter is correct, on the 24D Series M only the rifle firing pin has a spring, the shotgun firing pin does not.
|
|
|
Post by neilrr on Oct 7, 2016 7:22:52 GMT -5
As both CAS and jrguerra have previously stated the Model 24 does not eject the the hull free from the barrel since the Model 24 does not have an ejector, only an extractor. If the extractor is working correctly then when the barrel is opened the hull is pulled partially out of the barrel and must be manually removed.
I have no experience with the longer MCA barrel inserts. I do have a lot of experience with a set of barrel inserts, about 6" long that fit a 12 ga. barrel that came with an X-caliber combination gun that I do use that are fairly accurate to 25 - 50 yards. The set of 8 inserts are: 9 MM, .357 Mag/.38 SPL, .380 ACP, .40 S&W, .44 Mag, .45 ACP, .410 ga./.45 Colt and 20 ga.
|
|
|
Post by neilrr on Oct 1, 2016 18:45:16 GMT -5
RustBeltRedNeck - badbenjamin seemed lost as what to do next. I know my replies can be wordy, it is a result of my training and compulsion for details, I was only trying to help him out with a suggested fix and had no intention of one-upping you or anyone else who replies to those requesting help from members of this forum.
|
|
|
Post by neilrr on Sept 30, 2016 21:29:59 GMT -5
First welcome to the forum, Second the 24V and 24V-A barrels should release from the receiver in the same manner. With either 24, the forend is removed by simply pulling it away from the barrel, front end first. You can then open the barrels by moving the top snap level to the right. Once the barrels are opened, they can be slid backward slightly and then lifted off of the hinge pin located in the lower front end of the receiver.
If you are telling us that the top snap level is missing then you will need to insert a flat head screw driver into the opening in the top of the receiver where the top snap fits. Using the screw driver pull backward on the locking bolt assembly to release the barrels from the receiver to open them. Once the barrels are opened they can be removed from the receiver as stated above.
Good luck and if you need any further help please advise.
|
|